RF386PXGN1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Pulled range out from wall, unplugged AC, unplugged infinite switch, plugged in new switch, broke off end of stem, plugged AC in put range back and tested.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Element was sent by buyer, As they recommended, when model of stove given to them. It was upper right rear. When element came. First took off old element. ...Match both element , new element did not look exactly the same, small variation. It did not come on.. I moved old element from left side to right side . Old element worked on both side .. tried new element on left side also.. still didn't work.. so I called right away and explained.. new element did not work.. not defective, but, just wasn't the right one.. I had a specialist came and check it out also. I was told wrong element.

take off back panel, simply unplug the old switch and plug in the new one. Simple

took out the drawer by removing two fillips head screws, four more screws removed the drawer front. Two plastic push pins and the front panel was off. Put the new panel on secured it with the pins, attached it back on the drawer front, put in the screws and slid the drawer back in the stove, put the two screws back in, done deal!

This is a cook stove that is used 5 months a year. We have not fixed it yet because we are now in Florida the stove is in New York. We ordered that part just before we left NY for FL so the repair will be done in June of 2021.
George Clark

Replaced switch. Works right now.

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

use needle nose pliers to disconnect the element from the power supply. After disconnecting it was easy to repair.

I installed the new switch. No difference. I switched elements with the other 8”. Same thing. I called Part Select and their rep said he doubted the new switch was defective but if it was they would replace it. But first how about trading the new switch with the other 8” switch that is working. I did that and the new switch worked fine on that burner but the old switch that worked before allowed the bad burner to go to red hot. Now I’m at a loss. All I see is a new stove. I don’t know what to do next and am open to any and all suggestions.

Loosen 2 screws and put new part in and tighten 2 screws. After putting in new sensor stove gave me another code had new part in 5 min and part select would not take my part back.

Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

Tools required - #2 Phillips and needle nose pliers. (possibly a new spade connector and stripper/crimper) (possibly a multi-meter)

Shut off the power and slide the range forward about 8-10 inches from the wall. It does not need to be completely in the open and perhaps would not need to be moved at all. Some of the parts may be stuck with accumulation of cooking debris and grease, depending on age. Disassembly will be a bit more difficult than a new range because of this. Clean everything up before reassembly.

Open the oven door. Remove two screws, one on either side, below the control panel. Lift and work the control panel loose. It has two bullet shaped posts that engage slots in the front of the range. These are tight. Be patient and work it by lifting and pulling and wiggling the entire control panel. When loose, it will lay down flat supported by all of the wiring harnesses. In our case it did not stress the wires. If concerned, support it somehow.

There is a galvanized bracket that runs most of the width of the range and retains a rubber gasket on the front edge of the glass. Remove two screws that hold this bracket. The bracket easily comes loose, set it aside.

There is a stainless steel trim piece on each side of the cooktop, running from front to back. Each one is held in place by one screw in the front. Remove the screws and the two trim pieces will slide forward and can be removed. Set them aside.

There is a rubber gasket across the front edge of the glass cook surface. Remove it. The cooktop glass can now be lifted and worked loose from the rear rubber gasket that seals across the back edge. Set the cooking surface aside in a safe place. You now have access to the burner elements.

Using the needle nose pliers, work the spade terminal connectors loose from the burner that is to be replaced. Note their positions. The burner is held in place by two spring clips that attach the burner to a galvanized support bar that runs from front to back of the range. A screwdriver can be used to compress each clip allowing a tab to be lifted out of a slot in the galvanized bar. If needed, you can remove one front screw that holds the bar in place and lift it for better access, but while this is not necessary, it allows for a better view of the retainer clips and the tabs that fit into slots in the support bar. With both clips released, the burner is free to be removed.

Our burner clearly had a break in the coil, so there was no doubt about the cause of non-functionality.

The spring clips must be removed and transferred to the new burner. With both burners, face down on a bench, remove the screws that retain the clips to the old burner. Make note of the index numbers at the position of the old clips and place them at the same position on the new burner. This positions the burner when it is mounted so that the terminals are properly positioned to allow the wiring harness to be attached as it was.

With the spring clips in place on the new burner, place the burner back in the range and engage the tabs in the slots on the support bar. They will snap back into place. Reconnect the spade connectors. The burner should now be tested before reassembly. (see later)

In our case, when power was reestablished (but burner control in the off position) the Surface Hot light was on art all times, so we knew something was wired wrong, even though it was re-connected exactly as it had previously been. There are slight differences between the new burners and old burners that apparently impact the wiring. There are no markings on either the old burner or new burner to give clues as to how it should be wired. Neither was there any advice in the instruction sheet that came with the new burner. We tested all of the terminals with the power on (burner off) to determine what voltages were where and removed the cover of the small box to which the terminals are attached. This box contains small switches, and we were able to determine the new wiring scheme. By wiring it exactly as it originally was, we had inadvertently put power to the Surface Hot light full time and the same potential to both sides of the coil so it would not heat. With this corrected, it worked fine.

As always, reassembly is just the reveres of the steps taken to disassemble. It is a bit tricky to place the glass back in the rear gasket. Just be careful and work it into place. Also the front control panel can be challenging. Line up the bullets with the slots and work it into place. It will snap into place when it is close with the aid of the heel of your hand.

One other note. One of the four wires in the harness had a smaller female spade connector which had to be cut off and a new one crimped on in order to fit the new burner.

Because of the wiring logic issue that had to be troubleshot, this took about three hours, which included disassembly and reassembly twice (because we reassembled before testing), figurin

I used the replacement video from the web site. The replacement went great.