SF360PEEN0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Oven is gas. Burners on top OK, broiler in oven OK. Removed oven bottom plate and heat deflector. Carborundum igniter would not glow. Ordered new igniter from Partselect.com. With new igniter in hand I unplugged the oven from house power, removed the bottom drawer for access to the igniter connector, and disconnected it. Removed the bad igniter and replaced with new igniter...easy! Plugged in oven to house power and tested new igniter by turning on oven. GOOD!! Reassemmbled oven interior. Wife again happy.

took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.

We removed with a screwdriver the two main screws that held the bottom of the oven in place and removed the bottom oven piece; then we removed the two nuts with a socket wrench that held the element in place. We then discovered that the element wire did not completely egress to the point of being able to disconnect from within the oven, so we removed the storage drawer below the oven and that provided access to disconnect the element wire and reconnect the new element wire and then reverse the steps to install the new element, which worked fine upon first use and continues to work fine.

Had to remove the bottom oven shelf and the broiler drawer. Disconnected the wiring pigtail theought the broiler opening and pulled the gas pipe from the baking oven. Reomved the two screws connecting the ignitor from the pipe. Connected the new ignitor and threaded the wiring pigtail back down the the opening in the baking oven. Connected the wiring harness up inside the broiler and put the drawer back in. Re-installed the bottom shelf in the baking oven and tested. Worked perfectly. Back to cooking. :-)

Took off oven door removed all screws to get old hinges out. Replaced with new hinges and put the door back together.

This model does not have a removable bottom drawer making access a bit of a challenge.
1. Remove power to the range.
2. Remove the oven door and the kick panel below.
3. Remove the floor of the oven.
4. Remove the burner shield.
5. Become a contortionist, then stick your head and torso in the gas oven.
6. Look at the top in the back to see how the broiler igniter is mounted. Use this to select the proper size wrench. I suggest using little ignition wrenches. The oven igniter is mounted in the same manner.
7. Locate the oven igniter at the bottom, in the back, at the center. Remove the small screw taking care that you do NOT drop the wrench or the screw. This will be done by feel as the screw is only visible after you remove it.
8. Route the wire of the new igniter down, next to the old igniter wire.
9. Crawl under the oven (behind the kick panel you removed, and cut the wire.
11. While you are under there, strip the insulation back on the wires about 3/8 inch. Splice the new igniter wire to the oven using the new wire nut. Check that it is secure.
12. Back to the oven. If your back is still holding up, remove the old igniter. Install the new igniter and the old screw. Tighten securely, taking care to not strip the threads.
13. Remove all of your tools, your head, and your torso.
14. Plug the oven back in temporarily, turn the oven on and verify the igniter heats up.
15. Unplug the range again.
16. Reinstall the burner shield, the oven bottom, the door and the kick panel.
17. Make sure you have all of your tools, stand up, and since you are now a contortionist, pat yourself on the back!

Loosen 2 screws and put new part in and tighten 2 screws. After putting in new sensor stove gave me another code had new part in 5 min and part select would not take my part back.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

The repair went well. Only took a few minutes. Oven is 21 years old and still working. I figured why throw away if still working. Thank you Select Parts for coming to my rescue. Will keep you in mind.

Called repair man and described the problem. He said I could do it myself. PartSelect had the part and a previous description on the PartSelect site told me how to do the repair. It was easy. Be careful when removing the igniter nuts. I used a very small amount of sewing machine oil so as not to strip the threads. works great.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

DISCONNECTED POWER AND GAS TO THE RANGE. REMOVED 6 SCREWS FROM REAR OF THE RANGE. REMOVED THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR IN PLACE. DISCONNECTED THE LEAD FOR THE SENSOR. INSTALLED NEW SENSOR IN REVERSE ORDER. OVEN WORKING PROPERLY NOW.

To replace, the front glass slides into two holders on the bottom and three groves in the handle, then two screws to attach handle in place on the door.

1st gen whirlpool Duet dryer sensor not working in automatic cycle.
After ordering the moisture sensor harness which is about 6-8 inches long, I removed the lower panel and it is right there. I disconnected the two wire connectors in the upper left and I need a small screwdriver to disconnect the two pin connector which was a bit of a pain but once replaced I no longer had to use the timed setting to dry clothes and this will save me electricity.