GS395LEGB4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Clean off all broken glass and wipe down the debree,figure what side the glass goes then unscewed the base then the sides then add gorrilla glue on the edges to help set the glass in place had some hold it the screw th center bottom in first then got the sides in place with the bottom rack then screw it all back in to place making sure the side and top were in place right that was it.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

I pulled the stove out from the wall & took the back lower right cover off. Unplugged the power cord & disconnected the igniter from the power. Took shelves & bottom cover (took two screws out)from oven. Used nutdriver to remove old igniter, then pulled the connector through into the oven, discard. Put new igniter in place with nutdriver.Push connecting cord through to back of stove.Replace bottom cover & shelves. Plug cords together & plug cord back in to outlet.Turn stove on & igniter works!!! Push stove back into place & bake a cake! :)

Opened lower door of stove located ignitor removed 2 small screws that secure part, took guard off back of stove unplugged wire connector removed part plugged new ignitor in re-installed guard, re-installed 2 screws that secure ignitor. Turned stove on oven lit problem solved. This is the 3rd time i have used instant repairman on parts select to fix 3 different applicances and have saved hundreds of dollars fixing it myself with the help of parts select.

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Moved oven away from wall, Turned off gas and unplugged electrical from wall. The igniter has a coupler plug that you have to unplug from behind the unit. Take out the bottom drawer. Remove the 2 nuts holding the igniter in place. Remove old igniter. Replace with the new igniter, screw in nuts and thread connector wire to back of unit. Reconnect the igniter behind the unit. Turn on gas and plug in electricity. I checked to make sure it worked before pushing it back into place. I also took time to clean up while the oven was pulled out so it took about an hour - 15 minutes to replace the part - 45 to clean up. Works and looks just like a new oven range!

Removed old trim kit and handle installed new parts but was having problems with glass fitting between handle and bottom bracket there was a gap between glass and handle when installed fist time after disassembling again I found that the door frame it self had to be tapped back into alignment to be square but once the adjustments were made the installation was a breeze

Removed a cover plate on the back of the stove. Unplugged the old igniter. Pulled the bottom drawer out. Reached in under the stove and undid the 2 screws holding the igniter in place. Screwed the new igniter in and put everything back together. The only tricky bit was reaching the igniter through the bottom drawer opening.

Since the broiler worked fine, I took the igniter from the broiler (exact same) and moved it to the bottom and sure enough oven ignited fine. I did this to isolate the problem, because it could have been either the igniter or the valve. I put the broiler igniter back on top when I got the new part, because it is used only 5% of the time. Be aware that you may need to rummage for some machine screws because the factory screws stripped when I removed them. The oven must have annealed them.

To begin with,the symptoms were strange.....the burner would not ignite even though the igniter was glowing....but if you bumped anything in the broiler or pulled the drawer out and closed it abruptly,it would lite. This went on for a few weeks , until slamming and banging worked no more.(that was getting old anyway)I went ahead and ordered the igniter.It came fast and was very easy to replace.I went in from the oven,took out the racks and the bottom plate(2 screws), exposing the flame diverter that is just above the burner.(2 screws)You can access the igniter now ,and remove it.(2 screws),and unplug it.Reverse order to install the new one.I didnt unplug the range or turn off the power,because I screwed the igniter on first and then it was a matter of just plugging it in. Everything went back together and turned on the oven. Worked fine. Very easy to do,and no more banging around the broiler.Should have done it sooner.

Looks better than the old one wes and so easy to do. Thanks.

We ordered our part from PartSelect.com, of course, using their diagnostic tool(s). We received it very rapidly after ordering (a day or two). It involved taking two screws out of the bottom plate of the oven. There were two screws in the diverter (?), but they weren't attached to anything. I had my son, who is young, strong, and small get behind the oven to locate where the igniter plugged in. He detached it and I unscrewed the nuts holding it in place. One of them was in pretty crooked and made it a little difficult. But I pulled it out. I put the new one in place, my son plugged it in, and I replaced the two nuts, securing the new one in place. I replaced all the parts and their screws while the wife cleaned the gunk from behind where the stove sits. We did perform a quick test prior to re-assembly and it looked good. Re-attached everything, put it back in place and it's working like a dream. Just in time for Fall baked goods...

removed old and installed new

Undid one screw. Removed the broken slide. Replaced with new slide an fastened with the existing screw. Problem solved.

Used new differant screws to mount it and cut and spliced the wires to use the org. Plug.