GS395LEGB4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Unplug the electrical cord. Remove all the grates and burner caps. Remove the two philips-head screws on each burner. Slide the plastic putty knife under the cooktop in the front to locate two clips. Push in to disengage clips and lift cooktop up in front. Disengage cooktop from the rear of the range. Remove the bad igniter from the burner head and replace with the new, Disconnect the wire from the spark module and install the new wire. Replace the cooktop by securing the rear first and then lowering into place until the clips engage. Replace the philips screws on the burners and the caps and grates. Plug the range back in and you are done.

Remove the side covers. Remove the 2 screws on the back side of the door, hold on to the glass and front panel, they will fall out. remove the 2 screws holding the handle. Put the new handle in place and insert screws, note the old handle had metal inserts that are threaded, the new does not. Had to push very hard and let the screws bite into the plastic.

I use the table knife to slide the side of the stove to open the top. then I traced one of the wire to where it was hooked up and remove it and replaced it. I did them one by one.

Unplug the stove. Remove the burners. Release the top of the stove by using a screwdriver to push in the spring clips on each side of the stove top. Pull out stove to access the back of the stove. Remove the back plates. Identify the defective igniter wire and remove. Install the new igniter wire. Screw the back panels back on. Snap the stove top back in place. Reinstall the burners. Push the stove back into place and plug in the stove. Test the burners.
One precaution - make sure you do not move the gas tubing under the stove top out of position. If you do, make sure you put it back in line with the gas valves.

Unscrewed the feet from the floor. Pried up the range top, removed burners. Unscrewed sides of the range from wooden cabinet it was recessed into. Unplugged range from outlet. Pulled range out into the open. Removed back cover. Discovered that I have the wrong replacement part.

new handle arrived black for white oven - screws did NOT fit new handle- glass came off the door when removing old handle

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.

Took off oven door removed all screws to get old hinges out. Replaced with new hinges and put the door back together.

Unplug range from electric service.
Turn off gas supply to range.OVEN
Removed the floor panel of the oven housing.
Unscrew,and removed the heat deflector. (Caution sharp metals)
Used 3/8 socket set to unscrew the old Igniter, used same bolts to mount new Igniter.
Go to the back of the range removed the metal guard held by four Phillip screws, unplug old harness, plug new factory plug (do not alter harness)

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

this is the easiest repair possible. take out bottom drawer.. disconnect power cord. igniter is above burner grid.remove the two screws {be careful not to lose them}. move stove out from wall. from behind stove remove three small screws holding tin cover. and unplug the connector..install new igniter from under stove and plug in connector. install tin cover and move stove back in. replace bottom drawer. and plug in power. replacement saved the repair cost or replacement of a new stove..

It was a very simple repair pulled the old ignitor, and installed the new one in under 15 minutes. It was nice that it was a factory original part and matched perfectly. The wiring plug matched so no need to cut the plug and get ceramic wire nuts. The ignitor works perfectly and gets white hot rather than dark orange, the gas ignites in 20 seconds compared to 90 seconds.

Even though the old igniter still glowed, I took Part Select's advise that it may be getting weak and ordered a new one. They shipped the part out the same day, very nice, however FedEx decided for some reason to hold it for five days before moving it along. Boo! When the part got here the fix was straight forward, just a matter of unscrewing a small back panel, unplugging the part, taking the old igniter off the burner and reversing the process with the new part. Oven lit right up. Thank youfor your advise and quick service.