SF3020EKT3 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

This repair was easy as could be to screw take off the diffuser four screws in the back two little screws on the igniter

After I found the web site I looked at the possible solutions for my problem. My igniter was glowing so I was not sure that would fix the problem but several places indicated the igniter would fix the problem and after I replaced it the oven work great.

I didn't do it, but I suggest putting down newspaper to keep from having to clean up all the charred remains that will inevitably fall from the parts you have to remove. First, unplug the thing so you don't shock yourself. I removed all the racks for easy access to the drip pan, which had to be removed by unscrewing two screws. Then there was a cover over the flame area that also required two screws being removed. The coil had two screws connecting it, but first I had to pull out the drawer at the bottom, crawl under the unit and unplug the coil. I removed the two screws from the old coil and replaced it with the new one, but first I had to get back under and plug in the new coil. I was unprepared for the virtual small animals that were under the stove, so I took some time to clean out that mess. I tested the thing to make sure it would work, and it did. I put all the pieces back in reverse order and had some really good baked chicken for dinner. I also recommend using gloves, as all the soot is hell on your nice manicure.

Replace two igniters that were not working. Did not fix the problem. Swapped wire positions from Spark Module and noted that the problem followed the igniter positions. Replaced Spark Module. Problem solved. Procedure required disconnecting a/c power, removing four screws, removing igniter wires from old module and reconnecting them to new module. Reinstalled new Spark Module in range. Reconnected a/c power. Test successful. Total time: 20 minutes.

Igniter is in the back bottom of the oven. I had to take off the top of the broiler compartment which has 3 screws. Unplugged the igniter which has two small screws and used a magnetic nut driver. installed the new one. It took 30-45 minutes.

I basically followed the video. The hardest part of the repair was trying to squeeze behind the oven to remove the back plate. Also the original screws holding the igniter took a small Allen wrench that I didn't have so I used an adjustable wrench. One screw was a little difficult but eventually got it tightened. Otherwise this was an easy repair like other reviewers have said.

the research and diagnosis took much longer than the repair on this model. if i had the new igniter on hand, it would have been only about 15 mins.

pulled the stove out removed back cover, unplug then unscrew igniter. Mounted new igniter in place, plug it back in , put cover back on, put stove back in place. Took about 20 min. Very easy repair, thank you.

Turn gas off at tank. Oven rack out. 2 screws out of flame spreader and remove. 2screws from ignitor. Pull oven out from location to access rear bottom cover. 2 screws out and unplug ignitor. Guess what ? Reverse order. Not worth paying gas company over 250 dollars.

I just removed the bottom panel in oven and the igniter was right where the flames should be and I removed the two screws and replaced with new part. I replaced bottom oven panel. You need to remove rear panel and plug wire and replace rear panel. My problem was solve. It took 20-30 minutes tops.

Simply put the new ones on. I was very happy with how quickly the grates were shipped!

So....the oven stopped working.
I called a local appliance guy and set up an appointment to repair.
$90 to travel here.
$50 for the part
$ labor was about $75
..then tax.
BUT then....I had a moment of clarity.
A new Oven/Range/Stove top was about $400.
This guy was over $200 to repair a 4-7 yr old stove.
So I ordered the part.
A resus monkey could have fixed the stove...I really mean it...Easy is an under-statement.
I found a tutorial on you tube (how to change an Igniter.
Literally 6 screws and unplug the igniter and install the new igniter.
Replace the screws and replug in the unit.

and that's that.

Unscrewed the feet from the floor. Pried up the range top, removed burners. Unscrewed sides of the range from wooden cabinet it was recessed into. Unplugged range from outlet. Pulled range out into the open. Removed back cover. Discovered that I have the wrong replacement part.

I took apart the bottom of the oven to see the ignighter. I moved the oven away from the wall and took off the metal plate that covers the ignighter electrical connection.Unplug the old part and plug in the new one. With the nutdriver remove the two screws holding the part onto the gas tube. Save the screws and attach the new part with them. Turn on the oven to see if the gas tube lights. If all is good put the metal plate on the back of the oven and replace the other oven parts. Make biscuits!!

If your version of the stove has the square blank manifold tube, this superseded part does NOT work! The instructions that came from Whirlpool are so small and unreadable. I had to scan / take photos of them so I could blow them up to make them readable.
If you follow the instructions to the letter, the part will NOT work in the stove. I had to make several extra modifications and further "grinding" along with moving the screw holes to get the part in; and it still does not fit 100% but it is working.
I called Whirlpool for help / addition information and that was a waste of time, they sent me in circles and gave me no answers.

This part may work great in other models, but it does not fit SF310PEKW0 with the square black manifold tube.

For reference, I actually know what I am doing when it comes to things.