YGY396LXPQ03 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Visited PartSelect.com and ordered the element. Talked to a really sweet lady who assisted me at the company by ordering the part. Received the part and my husband cut off the electricity to the stove, took off the old element, got the sockets and after pushing on the new element, and he screwed the screws back on, cut on the electricity and we cut the stove on and it was ready to go. VERY, VERY SIMPLE TO REPAIR.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.

I followed the step-by-step instructions from Steve on the part select videos posted on Youtube.

Remove power from appliance, verify power is off. loosen two side screws that hold cook top to counter top. Gently push appliance up from bottom, everything from now on is done gently !. every component is very fragile. hope you have enough room to move cook top to side, if not, have help to hold it for you. #2 screwdriver, remove screws on all sides, two front, 3 sides, 3 in back. Note placement of connected wires in the affected element. # 2 screwdriver remove one screw on bar holding set of elements, lift and loosen metal spring and remove element, ply wires off with pliers. ( I suggest you clean inside cook top if needed) Note place of springs(Numbers) and remove to place on new element. reverse order to complete.

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

First, I turned the circuit breaker off to the range. Then, I pulled the range out so that I could get to the screws which held the glass top in place. They were located on the sides of the range. I had to remove the trim pieces on the sides to get to the forward screws. Once that was done, I lifted the glass top, unplugged the wire harness, flpped it over on a protected surface. I noted the numbers on the old coil where the clips held it in place and put the clips on the new coil in the same place. The old wires just clipped on to the new coil exactly as they clipped on to the old coil. I put it all back together and it works great! I am a 70 year old woman who did this all by myself. You young guys should have no problem.

I unplugged the stove and removed two screws on bottom of stove top (above oven door) one screw holding burner bracket in place. Took one wire off at a time and hooked to new burner, tightened all screws back down.

Took out the 2 screws and removed 2 wires connected to old element, put on new one. Did this all in about 5-10 minutes. Hubby didn't even have to help!

Killed the power to oven, removed oven from its enclosure (its heavy), removed back off oven and the part that needed to be replaced was right there. After that simply reverse the procedure. Honestly hardest part of whole job was remembering what i did with the screwdriver after my last home repair job. The oven is heavy you may need help.

unscrewed the top glass protector off and took the old bulb out and put the new bulb in. very easy - less than 5 minutes.

Removed the old element by taking out two screws and replaced the new unit using the same screws. The delivery time on the new element was very quick-about two days. Thanks.

Ordered the part from partselect.com. I was amazed that it arrived the next day! It was the easiest repair I ever did. Took out 2 screws, unplugged the wires from the old element, plugged the wires into the new one, and replace the screws. Done.

Contacted repair person on line and explained the problem. Person suggested testing the thermal fuse. Checked for continuity and there was none indicating the fuse was blown. Ordered new part and installed. Everything working again. Only problem was that the new part did not have the same connection as the old one on one end. Made substitution and it worked.