SM988PEPW2 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Un plug elect. Cord. Remove door by pulling upward removed back stove panel, un did 2 wire nuts leading to igniter. Un screw igniter inside oven at top next to burner pad. Interchanged old ignitor with new plug stove back in. Thats it.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Before ordering any parts I remembered seeing a fan above the nylon roof of the microwave. I had seen a belt that drove it on a prior repair 3 years ago.

I then removed 1 screw holding the electrical panel so I could tilt it open. Since power was still plugged in I didn't put my hand in. I used a flashlight and the broken belt.

I could also see the moter that turned the belt and tested it by starting and stopping the microwave and could see the motor pulley spin when it slowed to a stop. I then closed the control panel and screwed it in place.

That confirmed I proceded to go to the internet with the model # for the rane/microwave and looked for parts.

I had an easy job looking the part and saw that the fan as I had called it was named Stirrer because it kept stirring the microwaves over the food.

Overall I looked at 2 venders and chose Part Select because they showed the same catalog page and part numbers, and they had a better price.

I had my part/ belt in 4 working days and installed the new belt in about 15 minutes. This time unplugging the range so there was no power to be concerned with. It was a matter of picking out the old belt and putting the new belt on the motor then walking the belt over the large pulley at the Stirrer since the belt will stretch a bit.

Buttoned it up and later tested with popcorn and it left only a small amount of old maids.

Thanks, Walt

Replaced the existing ignitor by removing the bottom drip pan/gas line/ignitor (apprimately 18 screws), unscrewing the wire nuts, removing the old ignitor, connecting the wires to the new ignitor, and reinstalling the drip pan/gas line/ignitor (18 screws).

I slid out the oven burner disconected the old igniter and replaced it with the new one & slid back in place and connected the two wires and I was back in business. The job was relativly an easy one.

Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the breaker. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.

For the third time in less than a year I had to replace the broiler igniter. The range is 27 years old and has given us excellent service. When the igniter failed it's replacement lasted 3 months. The next replacement lasted about 6 months. This last replacement has been in service about 1 week. We shall see. The last one had an open wire within the ceramic mould. There was continuity from one wire, through the black portion, but not to the second wire. It seems like it was a fault in manufacturing.

Removed old ignightor and installed new one

Ceramic connectors were taken off the old igniter, pulled off old igniter and replaced in the same way the new igniter

Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC

I bought the part and replaced it.

removed the shield and removed the old tube. Replaced with the new tube and replaced the shield. The only place I could locate this tube was through the internet. This Co. had as good a price including shipping that I found.

The first one came damaged and customer service credited the first one and got another on the way the same day. They were awesome to deal with. I removed the oven racks, the burner cover, the storage drawr, and the door. That took about 5 minutes. I removed 3 screws that held the ignitor in place. I removed the 2 wire nuts from the wires in the drawr space. I slid the ingitor cover off the old ignitor and onto the new one. Slid the new ignitor into place and fed the wires below and put on the 2 wire nuts, then installed the 3 screws and tested the operation. I put the oven back together and put the tools away. Total time about 20 minutes.

We actually had to get the repairman back that had repaired our microwave. Our range has the attached microwave above the range. My stovetop light worked prior to the visit. When he left, I prepared supper without the light, which did not go on. Ultimately, we had to replace the fluorscent tube, which thankfully, you had. No appliance store in a 35 mile radius did. We finally got the glass protector off, and the new tube did not go on. Back to the repairman, to tell him the new bulb did not work and that probably something happened when he visited before. He came back, found that indeed a wire had been broken when he was working on the microwave. I had indicated to him I did not expect to pay another repair bill after I had alrealy spent 117. before plus the cost of the new bulb, 22. something including shipping. He obliged and id not charge me anythink to repair the broken wire.
Now I have the old bulb for back up!!!
Thank you for having my replacement tube!!

found igniter not working, pulled up on door and it came off, lifted up bottom of oven and pulled out, removed wing nut on deflector to access igniter, removed igniter retaining bolts, unplugged connector, be careful not to let connector slip back in stove, and reverse process to install new igniter,, all took about twenty minutes, easy repair,