GY396LXGT4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed the back access panel of the stove. Removed 2 screws holding the temp sensor, replaced temp sensor, Installed back panel. Done 19 minutes.

Opened the range surface, changed the large surface element. One of the wire was different to unplug. Need someone else to hold the panel. It was not a tough job.

By following the instructions, I exchanged the surface element. It was very easy. This was my first time fixing it too.

Removed the door. Took out all the screws. Removed the glass that was cracked. Put in the new piece. Put the screws back in place. Put the door back on and it was a done deal.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

First turn off breakers for cooktop. Reached undereneath the cooktop and pushed it out and set on the counter. (1) unscrewed the frame holding the glass and removed it. (2) pulled glass off. (3) Unhooked the burned out element after identifying wire connections so I could connect the new element correctly. (4) Put the glass back on the frame. (5) Placed the frame over the glass and screwed it back to to frame. (6) Moved cooktop back into place. (7) Turned breakers back on and turned element on and it was operational. It was a very easy job.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Sensor matched perfect, but had to pull large upper rear panel to find location. From there took a few minutes to reassemble back. Did not un hook gas but turned it off. Obviously unplugged power. Oven works fine.

Followed instruction on web site

My wife was complaining about poor baking results with the oven in the home we just purchased, so I hooked up my digital temperature meter and found it was almost 50 degrees of, so I tried the ovens off set program to bring it closer into range. That did the trick ,but she complained about poor baking still. I watched the oven cycle about 8 times and saw her problem. The oven was inconsistent when dropping below set temps, some times it was 20 degrees off, other times it was 80+ degrees off before the element kicked back on. I started with the sensor, it came with easy instructions including wire hi temperature wire nuts if the connectors didn't match... which they didn't. It was very easy to access the senor for replacement. Just unscrew about 10 screws, pull the back access panel off and there it is. Cut the connectors on both ends making sure to leave plenty of wire on each end. Wire nut them together and reinstall the back panel. Reset the oven off set back to zero and check the oven temp watching about 6 cycles. Comes right on now, and her first baking effort came out great...I am pretty sure that was the problem.

I did the repair following your instructions and it went very well. Now the temperature is working good , but the oven is heating up very slow. So now what should I do to fix the oven?

The part came in 2 days even though I chose the least expensive shipping method. The hardest part was unscrewing the old screws that held the old bake element in place. We soaked them in WD40, and after a while were able to unscrew them. The new element slid in place and works just fine.

Replaced both rollers....Quick and Easy!!

Although I put 15-30 mins for repair, most of that was taking it apart only to have to put it back until I got the right part. It can be done in 15min or less. FIRST: UNPLUG THE RANGE or Shut the circuit breaker OFF. Remove two screws (1/4" nut driver) on the front lower edge of the cooktop. These are seen once you opent the top oven door. Lift up the top and pull out about two inches and disconnect the multiwire plug in connector. Lift the top off the range and place it upside down on a flat surface (talbe or counter) protected with a towel. Unplug the sliding connectors from the burner unit noticing the correct placement. Remvoe the two tabs (#2 phillips screwdriver) on either side of the burner unit noting location. Take the time to clean up all debris with a vacuum or soft cloth. Install the new burner, connect the two tabs, plug in the connectors, return the top to the range, plug in the multiwire plug, secure the two screws and plug the range back in and start cooking!

The Temperature Sensor was actually installed from the back of the oven. I had to remove about six(6) screws to remove a metal panel on the back of the stove. The connector the Temp sensor came with did not match the existing connector however it did come with wire nuts as an alternative. I cut the wires and connected them with the wire nuts and replaced the pannel. Very easy fix and my 13 year old oven still runs like new.