GY396LXGT4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Although I put 15-30 mins for repair, most of that was taking it apart only to have to put it back until I got the right part. It can be done in 15min or less. FIRST: UNPLUG THE RANGE or Shut the circuit breaker OFF. Remove two screws (1/4" nut driver) on the front lower edge of the cooktop. These are seen once you opent the top oven door. Lift up the top and pull out about two inches and disconnect the multiwire plug in connector. Lift the top off the range and place it upside down on a flat surface (talbe or counter) protected with a towel. Unplug the sliding connectors from the burner unit noticing the correct placement. Remvoe the two tabs (#2 phillips screwdriver) on either side of the burner unit noting location. Take the time to clean up all debris with a vacuum or soft cloth. Install the new burner, connect the two tabs, plug in the connectors, return the top to the range, plug in the multiwire plug, secure the two screws and plug the range back in and start cooking!

pulled door up and out. Disassembled door. removed old glass and rope gasket. installed new glass and gasket.

Removed back panel on stove and found no continuity in bake element indicating a break in the element circuit. Also tested electrical supply up to the element and found that we had electricity up to the element when the oven was turned on. Went on line and ordered the bake element and it was on my doorstep in 48 hours. Remove 2 screws inside oven and disconnect wires from the rear and install new element and plug the 2 wires into it, replace rear panel ( 3screws) and turn electricity back on to the stove and you are back in business.

By following the instructions, I exchanged the surface element. It was very easy. This was my first time fixing it too.

Removed the door. Took out all the screws. Removed the glass that was cracked. Put in the new piece. Put the screws back in place. Put the door back on and it was a done deal.

I was able to remove the door by opening it partially and lifting it up while jiggling it. Once off, I laid it with the inside up on a table and the screws along the bottom facing outward so I could access them easily. I removed the various screws and porcelain covers and sides feel of easily. The inside panel lifted off exposing the inner glass and frame. The screws and clips had to be sprayed with penetrating oil to remove them. The frame lifted off and the cracked glass was removed. I was careful to wipe away all the fluid used to loosen the frame clips. Assembly was the reverse of this being careful to let pieces fit nicely without force. It would have cost me $39 to have the repair performed assuming I could get the door off. A Phillip's head screwdriver was not adequate to remove the frame clips. You needed a correctly-fitting square drive.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

Opened the range surface, changed the large surface element. One of the wire was different to unplug. Need someone else to hold the panel. It was not a tough job.

Followed instruction on web site

My wife was complaining about poor baking results with the oven in the home we just purchased, so I hooked up my digital temperature meter and found it was almost 50 degrees of, so I tried the ovens off set program to bring it closer into range. That did the trick ,but she complained about poor baking still. I watched the oven cycle about 8 times and saw her problem. The oven was inconsistent when dropping below set temps, some times it was 20 degrees off, other times it was 80+ degrees off before the element kicked back on. I started with the sensor, it came with easy instructions including wire hi temperature wire nuts if the connectors didn't match... which they didn't. It was very easy to access the senor for replacement. Just unscrew about 10 screws, pull the back access panel off and there it is. Cut the connectors on both ends making sure to leave plenty of wire on each end. Wire nut them together and reinstall the back panel. Reset the oven off set back to zero and check the oven temp watching about 6 cycles. Comes right on now, and her first baking effort came out great...I am pretty sure that was the problem.

Removed the back access panel of the stove. Removed 2 screws holding the temp sensor, replaced temp sensor, Installed back panel. Done 19 minutes.

I did the repair myself while my husband was at work. I lacked the brute strength to remove the door, so I ended up taking in apart while it was in place. Unfortunately, I only now noticed that instructions for installation were provided on your website. I did it without instruction, just making sure to note where screws had been removed so I'd be able to reassemble the works when I was finished. The worst part was loosening a couple of the innermost screws--even after a long soak in wd40, they were really hard to crack loose. Once I managed that, though, it went smoothly. Don't be intimidated; you can do this stuff yourself without calling--and paying--a repairman.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Sensor matched perfect, but had to pull large upper rear panel to find location. From there took a few minutes to reassemble back. Did not un hook gas but turned it off. Obviously unplugged power. Oven works fine.

Following the various instructions here made this replacement much easier! I was able to do this on my own with just a screwdriver. Pulling the hinges out was fiddly but after removing the screw and small hinge plate from each side a little wobbling and pulling with the door open an inch did the trick. After removing the door I started with the inside glass facing up on a table, and mid-replacement needed to flip the door over. So, recommend that you start with outside of door facing up. As you remove screws keep in mind where they came from so you can replace in reverse order properly. Other than that, everything went swimmingly! Thanks to everyone for their great advice.