GR563LXSQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Took off the screws on the back of the stove and took out the sensor, and put in the new one.

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

I watched the video, purchased the correct heating element and did the repair as illustrated in the video. I simply removed the cook top, removed the ground wire, removed the wiring harness, removed the failed heating element, installed the new heating element and reinstalled the wiring. Piece of cake!

I did the repair by myself. I used masking tape to hold the side trim in place. It was pretty easy and it looks great.

Removed old trim kit and handle installed new parts but was having problems with glass fitting between handle and bottom bracket there was a gap between glass and handle when installed fist time after disassembling again I found that the door frame it self had to be tapped back into alignment to be square but once the adjustments were made the installation was a breeze

Clean off all broken glass and wipe down the debree,figure what side the glass goes then unscewed the base then the sides then add gorrilla glue on the edges to help set the glass in place had some hold it the screw th center bottom in first then got the sides in place with the bottom rack then screw it all back in to place making sure the side and top were in place right that was it.

first I checked continuity through the surface element (burner) switch (rheostat) which was fine. then found the screws holding the burner top on and removed, this made it possible to lift up the burner top and remove the burnt out surface element.which was easy to see. take down the number, buy a new one and re hook up the four wires to the new element. (always mark down where the wires went)

Removed the therminal block and put the new one in.Using a screwdriver, very easy repair.

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

Repair video was very helpful. I have removed the screws on both sides of the appliance under the surface plate, in the front. The Owen door has to be open for that. Then I have pulled the surface plate for a little space to disconnect the two connectors. Turned the surface plate over on the kitchen table, removed the 6 screws. Turned the burners assembly over and removed the small burner by disengaging the two clips. I have removed the 2 clops from the burned burner and assembled it to the new burner. I have placed the burner and engaged the 2 clips with a crownose players. I have removed one electrical connecter at a time and connected to the new burner. I have turned over the assembly over the glass plate and assembled the back cover with 6 screws. Put the surface plate on the range and connected the 2 connectors, pushed back, lined it up with the 2 screw holes in front of the range on bot sides and put the 2 screws in and Finished.

The range top came off with two screws under the front portion of the glass top (by the oven door). I unplugged the connection plugs at the rear off the range top, unscrewed the rear screws holding the heating unit in place and plugged in new element and reassembled range unit. You need to removed the two phillip head screws at the rear of the range top in order to remove the bar holding the heating element. Once you do this it is very easy to finish the job.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

Removed the two screws, on both sides of the oven wall corner. Gently lift the front end of the glass top and pull towards me and disconnect the two electrical sockets. Carried the glass top assembly on the kitchen table and turned upside down. Removed the six screws. Removed the assembly from the glass top. Turn the top burners assembly over and disengaged the two clips of the burned out burner from the assembly plate. Transferred the two clips to the new burner on the exact locations like the old ones were. I have placed the new burner on the location and snapped the clips on the slots. Removed the connectors one piece at a time and connected to the new burner. Reversed the previous disassembly and all was done Works like a charm. Thank you all for assisting me in providing the necessary parts and video instructions. It was a lot cheaper than to buy a new range.