RJE313PP Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed the knob from package and placed it on the post which held the knob.

Removed all surface burners from range, removed range top screws, and suspended range top. Removed plug-in block mounting screw. Cut wires for plug-in block close to original wire-nut junction. Inserted contacts & wires from kit into plug-in block. Slid a provided shrink sleeve onto each wire. Stripped wires on range wires and then connected them to the plug-in block wires with the provided high-heat wire nuts. Selected one of the two provided plug-in block brackets that matched the original bracket on the range. Used a butane lighter to shrink the shrink sleeves over the wire nut connections. Snapped the appropriate bracket onto the plug-in block. Reassembled everything in reverse order and plugged in new element. Note: my only two issues are that the two high-heat wire nuts provided in the kit were a bit too small for the wire gauge in my Whirlpool range. It took some fiddling on my part by carefully re-stripping the range wires to get the wire nuts twisted on securely. Two more wire nuts of the next size up would have been appreciated. Also, I found that the provided plug-in block mounting screw did not find fit my range. No problem; I simply re-used the original screw. All in all, an easy repair and the element works perfectly.

The new handle, braces and screws arrived as quoted. My son-in-law installed the new one without much trouble. The handle is black and matches the black front of my stove. The older handle was sort of a wood-brown. Thus I like the new one better. Thank you for good service and prompt attention to the problem.
Linda Archibald
Hanson, MA

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Disconnect power to the oven at circuit breaker. Most important confired power removed by turning on buner,also with electrial meter. Remove hex screw. Pulled purner forward approx 3 inches remove the two wires to burner element . Installed new burner reverse rotation . Returned power to oven,all was well no problems. Not to sure of burner wattage on old and new unit,as two burners are avaiable for this unit. All ok . Thanks to parts select for speedy part needed

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Pulled out the old burners and put in the new ones.

ordered new broiler pan

Took a phillips head screwdriver and took out the two screws. Lifted off small plate securing screws, pulled lightly and wiggled the element out and popped the new one in. Total time 7 minutes - yes we timed it!!! Fast delivery too!!!

I removed each surface coil burner from its receptacle; removed the old drip bowls and replaced with the new ones; my stove looks good as new.

Someone did the repair for me.

First, turn the breaker off to the oven, you don't want to electrocute yourself. There are two screws that hold the element to the back wall of the oven, undo those and pull the element towards you. There are two terminals at each end of the element, take these off, then reattach to the new element and screw back in to the back wall of the oven. This process takes maybe all of five minutes

Shut off power to the stove.
I removed the screw that held the block in place. Then I lifted the top of the rage to get to the wires. I cut the wires from the old block and stripped back the insulation. Next I put the heat shrinking sleeve on. I attached the new block with the wire nuts, pulled the sleeve down and used a hair dryer to shrink them. Then you just hook it back on screw it in and your done.

Locate and shut off 220 volt breaker to Stove/Oven. Remove baking racks from oven. Use phillips screw driver to remove two phillip head screws holding bottom baking element in place. Slowly pull out element/wires and use volt meter to check for presence of voltage. Remove wires from element by pulling off female spade connector, push wire connector onto new element, carefully push wiring and element end thru rear opening and secure with the two phillip head screws. Replace baking racks, turn 220 volt source back on and test element to a high temperture, leave oven door open, new element will smoke slightly and create a burning odor, so take a few minutes to break in the new element. You're now readly to bake.
If you don't have a volt meter, turn stove/oven "ON" with lights indicating that stove/oven is ON, turn circuit breaker off and watch indicator lights go "OFF" when circuit breaker is tripped.