SF315PEKV0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Shut off gas and unplugged electrical cord. Removed grates; oven floor and flame spreader and then unbolted old igniter with nut driver. Removed shield in rear of over with Phillips screwdriver and unplugged igniter from power socket. Removed old igniter and replaced with new. Bolted new igniter into place with nut driver and plug into rear socket. Turned on gas and plugged in electric to test igniter; saw white glow and flame on in a minute. Replaced rear shield, flame spreader, oven floor and grates. DONE!

Our oven wouldn't light as the ignitor wasn't getting hot enough. I ordered the part from your company and got it in just a few days. A quarter inch wrench and one plug, done!

ordered the part and in less then 24 hours from ordering the part it was shipped and delivered and my husband and I put the part in took us no time at all very easy to do... 2 years ago i had this same problem and called a guy in the area cost me $200. I had dinner in the oven by 5 that night!!!!

I shut off the gas and removed the back plate and disconnected the wires. Then I unscrewed two screws from the igniter and replaced the old with the new. Then I snapped the wires together and put the back plate back on. The oven works great!

Really quite simple. Remove the racks - remove the two screws in the back of the bottom plate - slide out. remove the bottom drawer. remove the two screws holding the igniter - unplug the old igniter and remove. screw in new igniter, plug up new igniter, replace bottom drawer, replace bottom pate, replace racks. I did turn off the gas and electricity to the unit before repairing - and it was easier for me to get behind the unit to unplug/plug the igniter. works great! thanks!

Glass plate could fall to the floor and break. Need two people to change the handle - one to take it off/screw it back on and one to hold the glass in place to make sure it doesn't fall.

Slide the teethed washers on with gloved hand, so you don't break the glass with a tool. Get them down as close as possible and then screw the peice back into place on the oven door.

most difficult part was having to pull the stove out to access the Igniter wire connector. unplugged connector, removed 2 Igniter mounting screws, installed new Igniter and connected plug. very easy project. less than 30 minutes total thanks to website for perfect diagnosis of problem

Since the broiler worked fine, I took the igniter from the broiler (exact same) and moved it to the bottom and sure enough oven ignited fine. I did this to isolate the problem, because it could have been either the igniter or the valve. I put the broiler igniter back on top when I got the new part, because it is used only 5% of the time. Be aware that you may need to rummage for some machine screws because the factory screws stripped when I removed them. The oven must have annealed them.

I removed the oven racks, removed the oven floor and the oven burner cover, pulled the range out and removed the small panel on the back which covers the igniter connector. I disconnected the old igniter, removed the two screws holding the igniter in place and removed the old igniter from the oven. Then screwed on the new igniter, fed the wire through to the back and connected the new igniter. Turned on the oven and voila' we have ingnition! The oven is working again but I'm getting the "F2" routine sometimes. It doesn't do it every time but when it does I unplug and replug and then it works. I'm a 67 year old female and I considered it very easy so pretty much anyone should be able to do this repair.

Opened lower door of stove located ignitor removed 2 small screws that secure part, took guard off back of stove unplugged wire connector removed part plugged new ignitor in re-installed guard, re-installed 2 screws that secure ignitor. Turned stove on oven lit problem solved. This is the 3rd time i have used instant repairman on parts select to fix 3 different applicances and have saved hundreds of dollars fixing it myself with the help of parts select.

Removed a cover plate on the back of the stove. Unplugged the old igniter. Pulled the bottom drawer out. Reached in under the stove and undid the 2 screws holding the igniter in place. Screwed the new igniter in and put everything back together. The only tricky bit was reaching the igniter through the bottom drawer opening.

Removed bottom plate by pulling up from the back (had some resitance), Two machine screws holding cover over igniter, used 3/8" socket to remove. Pulled oven from wall to disconnect igniter @ coupler, unscrew one more machine screw, fed replacement igniter into slot and coupled, attached single screw to pipe, put cover w/ 2 machine screws on top, install bottom plate. Had to use butter knife to get bottom plate to fit into the front cabinet area of stove. Done & working fine.

We ordered our part from PartSelect.com, of course, using their diagnostic tool(s). We received it very rapidly after ordering (a day or two). It involved taking two screws out of the bottom plate of the oven. There were two screws in the diverter (?), but they weren't attached to anything. I had my son, who is young, strong, and small get behind the oven to locate where the igniter plugged in. He detached it and I unscrewed the nuts holding it in place. One of them was in pretty crooked and made it a little difficult. But I pulled it out. I put the new one in place, my son plugged it in, and I replaced the two nuts, securing the new one in place. I replaced all the parts and their screws while the wife cleaned the gunk from behind where the stove sits. We did perform a quick test prior to re-assembly and it looked good. Re-attached everything, put it back in place and it's working like a dream. Just in time for Fall baked goods...

I found it easy. I took my time prying off the metal rings from the back of the oven door handle with anything that has a point (a nail), then putting the metal rings back on the new handle pushing them down with my thumbs inch by inch. Key words (take your time).