RS696PXGB4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

With just the removal of a few screws I was able to replace the glass with the side benefit of cleaning the outter glass that had gotten dirty over the years with use. This is a simple project that all can complete.

I was able to remove the old element and planned it with what little time off that I could. This would have been maybe 20-30 minute repair at the most. HOWEVER! I was extremely irritated screws were not included? When I called to ask if they were missing they said they didn’t come with the element. Cost me a very annoying trip to the hardware store. Not sure if I missed it on the site that they don’t provide screws - would have been nice to know that before I started. Still scratching my head as to why screws wouldn’t be included? My old ones were as beat up as the element I replaced. I was so irritated I was looking for a spot to leave feedback. Product is fine. Shipping was fine. Sending these products out as they do? Zero stars on that.

Well, the instructions on the computer site were very easy to understand, however, the difficulty lay in the fact that we were 2 78 yr old people and getting to the inside the oven, lifting up the element so that we could see where it should be connected and get it connected was a task. We had to get down on our knees and then get back up. That was a chore within itself. But, the instructions were easy and clear.
Bottom line if us old people can do it, anyone can.

Removed the door from the oven. Undid all the parts above the inner glass door. Installed the inner glass and reassembled the door. Reinstalled oven door.

Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

I shut the power off first as this is 240v. Then removed all the screws that hold the element on. The old one had 5 screws. For this part you will need to buy new or reuse the old screws. I reused the old ones. Once loose the element pulled forward and exposed the connectors. I used pliers to pull the broken one out as it did not come out with the old element. It will only pull out a few inches, but that is enough to unplug the connectors. After unplugged the element can be taken to recycling. The new one can be set in the oven with the connectors near the wires and plug the two sides into the connectors. Have a screw ready and slide the rear of the element back into rear which will support it while you insert one of the screws into the front support to hold the element in place. Then move the element and support as needed to install the remaining screws. Once it is all tight, turn on the power and make sure it works.

Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:

1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.

Since there is multiple glass panels with several brackets, screws and insulation within the oven door I strongly suggest to take photos at each step using your smart phone. Do not attempt to remove all the components at once. Bracket positions, screw locations and glass orientation is necessary. This is the best advice I have to make this a quick and very easy job.

Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.

I turn off the power in the breaker box and then unscrew the part and replace it with the new one

I decided NOT to crawl under my stove top to find the correct model no. of the unit, as recommended in the Help section of the website. Instead I just guessed. It arrived, and of course didn;t fit. So I crawled under the stove top, got the correct model no., and instantly found the correct part to order. Part Select instantly honored my request for a refund on the first part and the correct part is on its way. So I ended up paying two delivery charges instead of one. LESSON LEARNED.

You will need a screwdriver and two pieces of duct tape (very important) before you start.
Unscrew the plate that attaches and keeps the element in place to the oven wall. If the screws are rusty, replace those too at this time.
Very gently pull the element and the wires out into the oven cavity. Do not tug. Gently remove one wire from the burnt element and use a piece of tape to stick it to the oven wall. If you lose the wire or if it slips back into the hole in the wall, you are in trouble. Repeat with the other wire. Now assemble the new element in the reverse order, one connector at a time. Screw back the holding plate, and you are done. Takes less than 10 minutes to complete and your oven will be as good as new.

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

Small, older female with limited hand strength here. Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the baking element from the oven wall with a screwdriver, snapped out the old one and snapped in the new one. 5 min tops. The broiler was a bit more labor intensive as the rusted and/or stripped screws did not want to come out. Used some liquid wrench, gripping grit, and a power drill to remove, but once the screws were out, it was another easy snap off/snap back in process. Had some screws on hand to replace the stripped ones. Broiled a steak that night with the new red hot broiler. So happy. This repair just saved me approximately $1800 to replace a 28 yr old drop-range. Very happy with this purchase.