SF325PEGW4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

After I found the web site I looked at the possible solutions for my problem. My igniter was glowing so I was not sure that would fix the problem but several places indicated the igniter would fix the problem and after I replaced it the oven work great.

I tried taking the sensor out, but the plastic coupling behind the oven wall had melted and the melted piece was larger than the opening in the oven wall. I had to use a mini-screwdriver to chip away at the melted coupling before it would fit through the opening. That took forever...but it finally worked and the repair went quickly (15 minutes) after that.

Removed two screws holding the bottom in, pulled out old bottom, inserted new bottom, replaced screws and tightened them. Total time less than five minutes.

Unsrewed what was left of the trim and oven handle. Just 4 screws total, then replaced the 2 screws of the trim and the 2 screws on handle.
Finished! Replacement parts fit perfect!!! Thanks a milliion!

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I didn't do it, but I suggest putting down newspaper to keep from having to clean up all the charred remains that will inevitably fall from the parts you have to remove. First, unplug the thing so you don't shock yourself. I removed all the racks for easy access to the drip pan, which had to be removed by unscrewing two screws. Then there was a cover over the flame area that also required two screws being removed. The coil had two screws connecting it, but first I had to pull out the drawer at the bottom, crawl under the unit and unplug the coil. I removed the two screws from the old coil and replaced it with the new one, but first I had to get back under and plug in the new coil. I was unprepared for the virtual small animals that were under the stove, so I took some time to clean out that mess. I tested the thing to make sure it would work, and it did. I put all the pieces back in reverse order and had some really good baked chicken for dinner. I also recommend using gloves, as all the soot is hell on your nice manicure.

Igniter is in the back bottom of the oven. I had to take off the top of the broiler compartment which has 3 screws. Unplugged the igniter which has two small screws and used a magnetic nut driver. installed the new one. It took 30-45 minutes.

I basically followed the video. The hardest part of the repair was trying to squeeze behind the oven to remove the back plate. Also the original screws holding the igniter took a small Allen wrench that I didn't have so I used an adjustable wrench. One screw was a little difficult but eventually got it tightened. Otherwise this was an easy repair like other reviewers have said.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3

the research and diagnosis took much longer than the repair on this model. if i had the new igniter on hand, it would have been only about 15 mins.

I took apart the bottom of the oven to see the ignighter. I moved the oven away from the wall and took off the metal plate that covers the ignighter electrical connection.Unplug the old part and plug in the new one. With the nutdriver remove the two screws holding the part onto the gas tube. Save the screws and attach the new part with them. Turn on the oven to see if the gas tube lights. If all is good put the metal plate on the back of the oven and replace the other oven parts. Make biscuits!!

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

pulled the stove out removed back cover, unplug then unscrew igniter. Mounted new igniter in place, plug it back in , put cover back on, put stove back in place. Took about 20 min. Very easy repair, thank you.

So....the oven stopped working.
I called a local appliance guy and set up an appointment to repair.
$90 to travel here.
$50 for the part
$ labor was about $75
..then tax.
BUT then....I had a moment of clarity.
A new Oven/Range/Stove top was about $400.
This guy was over $200 to repair a 4-7 yr old stove.
So I ordered the part.
A resus monkey could have fixed the stove...I really mean it...Easy is an under-statement.
I found a tutorial on you tube (how to change an Igniter.
Literally 6 screws and unplug the igniter and install the new igniter.
Replace the screws and replug in the unit.

and that's that.