WFC315S0JW4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

removed drawer below oven, reached under stove and unplugged from outlet, pulled stove out from between cabinets, removed the 8 screws with 5/16 nutdriver from back panel and removed the panel, removed knob from switch , measured length of stem on old switch and compared it to the new switch ( my old switch stems was shorter than the new one so using a pair of pliers I shortened stem per instructions that came with new switch, this was very easy to do ), removed the two screws holding switch to stove and removed the old switch, then I transfered one wire at a time from the old switch to the new one until I had all the wires connected to the new one, used same two screws holding old switch to the stove to mount the new switch to the stove and put knob from old switch onto the new one, installed back panel to stove using the same 8 screws, pushed stove back into place between the cabinets and plugged the stove into the outlet, put drawer back in place below oven door, reset clock and tried out the new switch, so far so good only time well tell if I fixed my problem because it only happens once in awhile

switched out latch asy,rear

Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

My oven was assembled at the factory with half a hinge in left side ( no giant spring assembly) and in 15 months the right side hinge twisted and collapsed from bearing all the weight. First I thought I was only dealing with one bad hinge, and took the screws out of one side of door only and replaced hinge and was done in five minutes. Watched YouTube videos which were great and did the repair . Then I noticed the other hinge had no tension on it and did a complete disassembly of door and compared hinges and discovered the other shoddy assembly. I recommend you try to replace one hinge at a time. Take out screws on one side and finagle hinge into place. I did not do this and it took a long time. Rated repair difficulty due to several parts of oven door need to be aligned correctly to get the screws back in. Getting one side aligned caused the other side to become mis-aligned. Not rocket science but requires a lot of patience as you will redo it many times. I screwed the new hinges/steel channels they sit in into the inner door to help reduce the number of moving parts. Then aligned and secured door parts. I cut a 6” piece of straight wire from a coat hanger and stuck it through the screw holes to line them up. Worked very well, and after door was screwed together then I finally screwed the hinges to the outer door.

Shut down breaker; remove stove back cover plate (8 screws); remove the control knob; remove knob screws (2); simply remove one wire at a time and replace the coresponding wire to the new control unit; remove the snap ring on the knob bar and snap off to fit the proper length; place the control unit in position and reinstall the 2 screws; reinstall the back panel; position stove and turn throw the stove breaker on; test the burner control.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.

Ordered a new switch and replaced the old one with it.

Pulled the dial off, unscrew two screws. Pull the switch out from the back. Disconnect the wires from the old switch and connect to the new switch one by one. Set the new switch in place. Sctew the two screws in to hold the switch in place. Push on the dial.

Lift and remove heat elements
Lift and remove Drip bowls

Replace Drip bowls and heat elements

Very easy remove the burner and instill the drip bowls

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too