WFE320M0JS4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

Watched video & did just guy in video did. Very easy job & the burner works like new.

Just follow included instructions.

Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place

Unplug and pull out range.
Unscrew the back of the range with Phillips #2.
Unplug wiring harness from switch.
Unscrew the switch from the front of the range with P2 driver.
Install and plug in new switch.
Remove the spring steel knob retainer from shaft.
Cut off extra knob shaft with dremel to match others (there is a narrow segment at the proper length).
Reinstall knob retainer, knob, and range panels.

By hand screwdriver

The repair was easy. I unplugged the stove, removed back panel, pulled knob and removed 2 screws to remove switch. Unplugged old switch, plugged in new one and installed the 2 screws for switch. Had to snap off stem for new switch to fit knob (easily done with pliers with provided notch). Put knob and back panel back on. Total time, maybe 20 minutes.

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

Watch the video...

after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy

Replaced switch. Works right now.

First I threw the breaker for the stove to off. I pulled the whole stove out, removed the back cover, removed the knob from the faulty control switch and then unscrewed the two screws holding in the switch. I then pulled the wires from the back of the faulty switch, inserted the wires into the new switch, reattached the two screws that hold the switch in. I threw the breaker back on and turned the burner on long enough to make sure that both dual elements came on and went off like they should. At that point I reattached the back cover and shoved the stove back onto its' slot. All is well and all went well.

Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair

1. Pull the stove away from the wall and unplug the stove from the 240 volt receptacle.
2. Remove the knob from the switch (it just pulls off).
3. Unscrew the top half of the back plate of the stove and removed (about eight or so screws).
4. Unscrew the two screws attaching the control switch in the front of the control panel (these were hidden by the control knob just removed).
5. Pull out the control switch and detach one at a time the two sets of wire connectors attached to the switch. In order not to confuse which plug goes where, attach each connector to the new switch as you remove them. (Note: the connectors may be quite tight to the original switch; do not pull on the wires but simply work each connector gently until it slides off. They will reattach to the new control switch much easier.)
6. Reinstall the new switch to the stove in reverse order of removal. Make sure that the control knob, when the switch is reattached, is in the off position pointing straight up.
7. Reattach the upper back plate of the stove. For safety's sake, do this before reconnecting the stove to power.
8. Plug in the stove and test to ensure that the switch is working properly.

I installed the new switch. No difference. I switched elements with the other 8”. Same thing. I called Part Select and their rep said he doubted the new switch was defective but if it was they would replace it. But first how about trading the new switch with the other 8” switch that is working. I did that and the new switch worked fine on that burner but the old switch that worked before allowed the bad burner to go to red hot. Now I’m at a loss. All I see is a new stove. I don’t know what to do next and am open to any and all suggestions.