MER6555AAW Whirlpool Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

Removed the door form the oven. Removed all screws holding the door covers. Removed all screws holding the handle mounting brackets and handle. oriented the new handle to the door and reversed the disassembly process.

Replaced receptacle but it was not the problem. After further inspection I believe that the problem is the switch. The switch is on order now from Part Select.

I pulled the range away from the wall to gain access to the back.I turned off the power to the range at the circuit breaker panel. I unscrewed all little screws on top of back plate then removed it carefully.I took several pictures on the connections to the ECR board.I watched a video on You Tube which was helpful.The difficulty was getting the connectors off without breaking them. By carefully putting the edge of the flat blade screwdriver under each connector and twisting it gently I was able to get this little plastic locking pin to let go.Once this pin unlocked I was able to remove the connector from the prongs on the range. After removing the ECR board I carefully removed the decal from the front of the old board by pushing the edge of a sharp putty knife slowly under the decal. Following the pictures I took I was able to connect the new ECR board connectors properly and re-assemble the board into the top of the range after attaching the decal being careful to line it up properly.Once the range was back against the wall I turned on the power and set the clock then proceeded to test the small top oven which now worked fine.I found the people at at this stie to be very knowledgeable about what parts are needed to fix common problems.

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

I first removed the drawer from under the oven, then I used 2 strips of packing tape to hold the front glass in place. Next I loosened the 4 screws on the bottom side of the door to the point just before they would fall out. Next I had someone help hold the glass as we removed the tape and slid the glass from under the handle and set it aside. Once the glass was off I removed the 4 screws on top of the door and the 4 screws (2 each side) holding the handle brackets. From that point it was just a couple of screws on the back of the handle to swap the broken part for new and reassembling everything. Could be done in 30 minutes, 40 by yourself. Maytag wants $24 to tell you how to do this, it's not worth the money. Also, PartSelect.com sold me the part for 30% than Sears or Maytag advertise - they've earned a permanent bookmark in my browser!

I removed the two small screws, gently pulled the element outward, slid the wire connectors off the ends of the element legs and reversed the process to install the new one. THE ELEMENT STILL DOES NOT HEAT. There must be a bad switch or thermostat at the ON switch area. That will be checked out by a Repair man as soon as I can get a schedule from him.

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.

I pulled the range out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a Phillips-head screwdriver. I then removed the two screws inside the oven that holds the element in place. I located the two wires on the back of the range attached to the element. I gently pulled off the wires using a pliers and then easily removed the burned out element. I put the ends of the replacement element into the respective holes, screwed them in and then plugged the wires back on at the back of the range. After replacing the back panel, I plugged the range back in. I turned the oven on with an oven thermometer inside, to test it out. I imagine I saved at least a couple of hundred dollars for the repair with this simple DIY, if not, the cost of a new double oven range!

I unscrewed the framing trim around the door, secured the new handle to the brackets and reassembled the trim....all told its about 10 screws to remove/put back in....
Thanks to Suzanne I received the replacement handle in a very timely manner from Pars Select

Easy enough, hardest part was removing the original wire connectors from the original board. The connectors were on very tightly. It occured to me that it might be cost effective to send the orginal failed unit to a central remanufacturing site for say a $5 or $10 reward. You could include a label and a prepaid shipper to sent there in the boxes you sent me. This would be something a charitable company could do and would result in cost savings all around.

just replacing the new one into place manually!