JDR8895ACS Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Just slipped the knobs on the control pegs.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

This is not a hard fix but don't believe the stories that say it'll take 15 minutes. Took me a little over an hour to uninstall the part - maybe 30 minutes to put it together again. Easy to intermediate fix.

First - kill the power using the circuit breaker, pull out the range from the wall & shut off the gas line. Unscrew two screws on the underside of the rangetop (open the oven door to access) then remove a couple more on top by the knobs. After that the top will lift up a bit. Then disconnect the 5 gas line fittings on the manifold & the main gas fitting into the manifold. Remove the back panel to unplug the wire connected to the switch. Now pull out the manifold that has the igniter switch on top. That's about it. When you look at the existing part you can easily see how the new part attaches to the manifold.

Install part & put everything back together.

The cost was around $46 total - hard to beat that!

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

1. Open oven door to first detent, then pull it up off the hinges.
2. Pull oven out from counter 10-12 inches.
3. Hinges are accessible from the outside of the oven.
4. Remove 2 screws on each hinge and remove old hinges.
5. Put new hinges in place and try to insert mounting screws.
6. Wonder why screws won't start in threads.
7. Examine new hinges and notice they are not threaded for the screws.
8. Screws are not self-tapping, so go to basement and get tap & die set.
9. Use 10-24 tap to make threads in new hinges.
10. Put new hinges in place and insert mounting screws. Tighten.
11. Pull hinges to first detent and put oven door on hinges.
12. Push oven back into place in counter.

Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.

I installed the Cap-Burner on the left front right, and then the gas ignited and I was able to use the stove.

When the element failed, it continued to glow nearly white-hot and slowly burned along a spiral path on the element. I figured this MUST be due to a voltage leak - the control was OFF on the range.

I shut off the breaker, removed the two screws where the element goes through the back of the oven, pulled the element forward and pulled the wires off of the element. (Found it handy to twist the wire connectors outward to prevent the wires from slipping through the back of the oven.)

A new element won't "fit" exactly but you can easily push it into position to get the screw holes to line up. Total time was less than 15 minutes.

removed screws and disconnected the wires removed element and did the replacement less than 15 minutes, and cost less than locally by 25.00 and received part the next day. EXCELLENT

Power turned off. Door of the oven lifted off. Four screws removed, old element pulled out to reveal electrical connectors. Wires easily removed, and element discarded. New element connected to the two conductors, four screws installed and the job was completed.
Very easy. Took about 10 minutes.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

Used my hand to push on. So really done in 30 seconds. I just couldn't believe the cast of a plastic knob.

Bought new hinges as that was the obvious problem.
Below is the removal, installation process for new hinges. Turns out in my case there was nothing wrong with the hinges. Problem was still there after installing new ones. I found that the metal in the door that butted against the hinges was fatigued causing looseness. I ended up compressing the metal back into shape with a hammer. Problem solved but money wasted on hinges.
If you replace hinges. Here is what I did.
1. Open door slightly to where it stops in broiler position.
2. Remove the door by pulling up.
3. Remove two screws in front of hinges that hold them in.
4. Pull range out a few inches for access the remove the side fillers that trim out the stove.
5. Reach in from the side and work hinges out.
5. Pop in new hinges and reattach the 2 front holding screws and the side trim screws.
You are done.

Pulled the Oven out. Unplugged from wall. Removed all screws to appropriate upper stove panel to open back. Gained access to the control panel by removing all appropriate screws. Disconnected the ribbon cable and green, blue, white, yellow, black connectors.
Replaced new Control Panel and replaced screws. Plugged in each appropriate connector to its color-coded receptacle. They are all clearly labeled by color, so it is impossible to make mistake. You cannot go wrong. Connect ribbon and replace the back outer panel to the range covering the Control Panel. Plug Range into wall circuit and test new installation by following the instructions in manual that came with your range when it was purchased. Slide back into place. GREAT JOB! Easy-Peezy!