JDR8895AAS Whirlpool Range - Instructions

not to offend anybody but what i learned on prior posts helped alot..
1. remove unit and unplug.
2. remove door by opening to 45 degree angle and lifting door face towards you.
3. remove back panel to unit.e.
4.unscrew burner element from back inside of oven.
5.gently pry clip off each off burner element from rear of unit. Pull gently towards you.
6.unscrew support from inside oven.
7. remove old element and just reverse directions to reinstall.

When I was cleaning my stove-top, water got down into the igniter switches, and shorted them out. After buying the switch harness from Part select, I had some idea how to install it, but thankfully they had online, step by step instructions. That save me a lot of time and trial and error time. It went in perfectly with their instructions. Thank you very very much for all your help! God Bless!

Turned off the power to the unit and removed the 2 front screws on the stop-top which are underneath the front when you open the oven door. Removed the back cover and removed the 2 screws for the back of the stovetop and removed the top. Took the old igniter switches out and replaced them with the new set. The connections are simple as they are snap in no wiring required. Replace stovetop screws and replace the back cover.

Just slipped the knobs on the control pegs.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

removed screws and disconnected the wires removed element and did the replacement less than 15 minutes, and cost less than locally by 25.00 and received part the next day. EXCELLENT

When the element failed, it continued to glow nearly white-hot and slowly burned along a spiral path on the element. I figured this MUST be due to a voltage leak - the control was OFF on the range.

I shut off the breaker, removed the two screws where the element goes through the back of the oven, pulled the element forward and pulled the wires off of the element. (Found it handy to twist the wire connectors outward to prevent the wires from slipping through the back of the oven.)

A new element won't "fit" exactly but you can easily push it into position to get the screw holes to line up. Total time was less than 15 minutes.

1. Open oven door to first detent, then pull it up off the hinges.
2. Pull oven out from counter 10-12 inches.
3. Hinges are accessible from the outside of the oven.
4. Remove 2 screws on each hinge and remove old hinges.
5. Put new hinges in place and try to insert mounting screws.
6. Wonder why screws won't start in threads.
7. Examine new hinges and notice they are not threaded for the screws.
8. Screws are not self-tapping, so go to basement and get tap & die set.
9. Use 10-24 tap to make threads in new hinges.
10. Put new hinges in place and insert mounting screws. Tighten.
11. Pull hinges to first detent and put oven door on hinges.
12. Push oven back into place in counter.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

I installed the Cap-Burner on the left front right, and then the gas ignited and I was able to use the stove.

This part was correct, but the removal and installation were complicated by the fact the the gas manifold had two support arms spot-welded into place. These arms hold the gas manifold to the cook-top surface by two machine screws. Also, since I could not budge the screws holding the burners to the cook-top, I could not actually remove the cook-top and had to work in just the space between the cooktop and the top of the oven. The two arms prevented the removal and replacement of the igniter switch assembly. The only way I could remove the old switch assembly and replace it was to bend the two support arms just enough to allow the switch bodies to clear the arms. Then of course, I had to bend the two arms back to their original shape. To do that work, I had to remove the gas supply line (aluminum tubing) from the gas manifold and then reattach the gas line. Doesn't sound too bad, but getting the alignment right on the supply tubing nut was quite difficult. Since there is no lead thread on this male nut, nor on the female connection to the manifold, it is very easy to get it cross-threaded if you are not extremely careful.

The repair went very easy. Just took out the old set and put the new one in. The most time consuming part was to take off the outer parts of the stove to get to the part I needed to repair. The repair was easier than I had expected.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Power turned off. Door of the oven lifted off. Four screws removed, old element pulled out to reveal electrical connectors. Wires easily removed, and element discarded. New element connected to the two conductors, four screws installed and the job was completed.
Very easy. Took about 10 minutes.

Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.