SF272LXTD2 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Instructions for error codes were listed in a booklet hanging on the back of the range. Have unplugged and replugged the unit twice before after getting the F1 code after a power failure. This time the error code remained, indicating a damaged control box. Referenced the model number to the Part Select parts list, ordered the part on a weekend and it arrived on Tuesday. 4 screws to remove the back cover. 4 screws to remove the old control box. 3 plugs to disconnect. 4 screws to install new part. 3 plugs for the wiring. 4 screws to install back cover. Plug in the stove and slide back into position...about 20 minutes.

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

Took the old one out and replaced it with the new one, fits perfect.

Lifted the top disconnected the old valve and replaced with a new one.I believe the valve should have been shipped with two gaskets,. One for the bottom and another for the top. I reused the old one on the top with no problem but would have preferred a new one.

removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.

all I did was replace the igniter and that fixed my problem simple to do.

I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Remove old knob and put new knob in. About 10 minutes total.

Undid one screw. Removed the broken slide. Replaced with new slide an fastened with the existing screw. Problem solved.

Just push knob into place.

Used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the single screw holding the part in place and put the new one on. Finding the part on this site was a breeze and it arrived quickly. A first rate experience all around.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

had to replace a broken knob, plastic was broken on the inside fitting. Took all of 2 seconds to replace

Open oven door and remove racks. Remove 2 screws at back of oven floor and remove bottom plate. Unscrew screws that hold flame defuser. Remove defuser. Remove screws that hold bake igniter and flame tube. Unplug wire to bake igniter. Remove screws to bake igniter. Replace old igniter with new igniter. Replace screws and wire to igniter. Replace flame defuser and put screws back. Put bottom plate back into oven. Replace 2 screws at back. Replace racks. close door and test by setting thermostat to some temperature and verify that oven works.