RF310PXPW0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I used the replacement video from the web site. The replacement went great.

I installed the new switch. No difference. I switched elements with the other 8”. Same thing. I called Part Select and their rep said he doubted the new switch was defective but if it was they would replace it. But first how about trading the new switch with the other 8” switch that is working. I did that and the new switch worked fine on that burner but the old switch that worked before allowed the bad burner to go to red hot. Now I’m at a loss. All I see is a new stove. I don’t know what to do next and am open to any and all suggestions.

Removed all surface burners from range, removed range top screws, and suspended range top. Removed plug-in block mounting screw. Cut wires for plug-in block close to original wire-nut junction. Inserted contacts & wires from kit into plug-in block. Slid a provided shrink sleeve onto each wire. Stripped wires on range wires and then connected them to the plug-in block wires with the provided high-heat wire nuts. Selected one of the two provided plug-in block brackets that matched the original bracket on the range. Used a butane lighter to shrink the shrink sleeves over the wire nut connections. Snapped the appropriate bracket onto the plug-in block. Reassembled everything in reverse order and plugged in new element. Note: my only two issues are that the two high-heat wire nuts provided in the kit were a bit too small for the wire gauge in my Whirlpool range. It took some fiddling on my part by carefully re-stripping the range wires to get the wire nuts twisted on securely. Two more wire nuts of the next size up would have been appreciated. Also, I found that the provided plug-in block mounting screw did not find fit my range. No problem; I simply re-used the original screw. All in all, an easy repair and the element works perfectly.

After my husband replace it we noticed that our knob was worn to the point it would not turn on the new switch. I am sure the switch was o.k. so kept the old one and getting a knob to fix the issue.

The new handle, braces and screws arrived as quoted. My son-in-law installed the new one without much trouble. The handle is black and matches the black front of my stove. The older handle was sort of a wood-brown. Thus I like the new one better. Thank you for good service and prompt attention to the problem.
Linda Archibald
Hanson, MA

REMOVE BACK OF RANGE, REMOVE BURNER KNOB. REMOVE SWITCH CONTROL REMOVE WIRES. REPLACE WIRES ON NEW SWITCH. INSERTED ALL WIRES REPLACE NEW SWITCH RE REPLACE ALL SCREWS. CHECK SWITCH. TURN BRAKER BACK ON. CHECK SWITCH FUNCTION. ALL IS FINE. PUT BACK ON RANGE SCREW IT IN PLACE. MOVE RANGE BACK IN IT POSITION.

I followed the instructions provided.

Turned off breaker, pulled stove from wall, took off knob, unscrewed and pull off backing from stove, unscrewed heat control part, unplugged wires, plugged into new part, installed part, replaced stove backing, replaced knob, pushed stove back in place and turned on breaker. It worked fine.

Unplug from outlet and top remove back section of range and unplug wiring from switch, remove knob and unscrew two screws and remove old switch. Install new switch reinstall screws and plug switch plugs into new switch (will only go on the correct way). reattach back and plug into outlet. All done and surface element works perfectly.

Turned off power to range. Took back panel off to reveal all controls. Pulled off knob of bad control. Removed 2 screws from the front of the control. Pulled off wiring from back of old control. Took new control reversed procedure. Reinstalled back panel turned power on and tested new control. Total time about 20 minutes

Piece a cake!
Turned off electrical breaker.
Removed original screws from old defective element and slipped in new replacement element.
Perfect fit!

I removed the block, cut and spliced the wires to the new block and installed the burner. I used the new style block kit and saved about $30. It worked great!

I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine

remove burned out eye, replaced with new eye.new eye does not fit exactally correct onto splash pan as point on end of steel " rod " not pointed enough to slip into mate on splash pan

Locate and shut off 220 volt breaker to Stove/Oven. Remove baking racks from oven. Use phillips screw driver to remove two phillip head screws holding bottom baking element in place. Slowly pull out element/wires and use volt meter to check for presence of voltage. Remove wires from element by pulling off female spade connector, push wire connector onto new element, carefully push wiring and element end thru rear opening and secure with the two phillip head screws. Replace baking racks, turn 220 volt source back on and test element to a high temperture, leave oven door open, new element will smoke slightly and create a burning odor, so take a few minutes to break in the new element. You're now readly to bake.
If you don't have a volt meter, turn stove/oven "ON" with lights indicating that stove/oven is ON, turn circuit breaker off and watch indicator lights go "OFF" when circuit breaker is tripped.