YWFC315S0JS1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Remove the plug from outlet then shutoff gas. Remove the 10 screws hold the back panel of the oven. Unclip the connector of the temperature sensor from the main line. Pull the sensor straightout. Reverse the process install the new sensor. Couldn't be any easier. Oven working great. Calling in a reapairman would have cost $200 for parts and labor.

Needed new drip pans for range top. Easy fix. Was impressed on how quick the parts were shipped out to me.

After putting up with ill fitting generic versions of our drip bowls, we smartend up and ordered correct parts. They went in super easy, perfect fit and the heating element is now perfectly level. Who knew that following the manufactors recommendations to buy correct parts would make such a difference? Well we know now! Thank you. The parts were shipped almost immediately and delivered as promised.

placed element in drip pan and plugged in. .Fit perfectly.I am very pleased with the product and service.

Unplug range from 220VAC outlet. Remove screws on back of range control panel and lift cover exposing controllers and wiring. Remove burner controller mount screws. Measure old controller shaft length/new controller shaft length (per instructions). Adjust new burner controller shaft length. Remove wiring from old controller (one at a time) and place on new controller. Install new controller and secure with 2ea mount screws. Re-assemble cover/control panel. Plug range into 220VAC outlet. Have wife ops check....everyone's happy.

First, I turned off the power at the switch box. Moved the stove out (That was a problem, because I am 80 years young) Removed the back panel, and moved the wires one at a time to the new switch. Removed the selector, then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in. Installed the new switch installed the dial selector, turned the power back on, and checked the burner. It works as advertised!!!!! Moved the stove back to its original position, and got a hug from my wife. PHEW!!! Now I think I'll take a nap.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

since I only had one of two screws, i installed with just the one. it would not work at all using a slightly longer screw, which is very odd.

due to the cooktop age, part was not an exact duplicate. I had to drill new holes in the stainless steel for mounting and ground wire. I used a lot of kitchen matches to heat the shrink tubes over the twist connectors. I should have gotten a heat gun or torch.

The detection of the part and the replacement of the upper spray arm was quite easy, because of its unique shape and function, and also because it was easy to screw in place. I saved the web order page in case this part tends to deteriorate frequently, even though it is the first time it showed this problem since we purchased this appliance.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

Unplugged unit, removed plate behind control panel, removed 5 or 6 wire connectors, pulled off burner switch knob and removed 2 screws that holds switch in place. Reversed the procedure and was done.

Just cut the old receptacle wires and splice in new kit. Very simple and worked perfectly.

My first approach was to try to find some help on the internet - Y-Tube or whatever. When I could not find anything, I was on my own. My first thought was that the best and easiest access to the switch was to somehow remove the top section of the range which held the switch. I was trying to avoid having to pull the range from the wall and cabinets. But not finding any way to do that, I then pulled the range from the wall, and removed the back panel (8 screws), which gave me easy access. Once that was done, the replacement went smoothly and quickly. So if replacing any switches on this range, FIRST pull it from the wall and THEN remove the back panel, and the rest is a piece of cake!

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.