WFE515S0JS1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Snapped in the new drawer glide. Took less than 5 minutes.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

i personally did not do the repair..one of my neighbors did it and he said it was super easy..he pulled stove out from wall, unplugged it from socket, removed defective part, shortened clip that knob attaches to, installed new part with no problems whatsoever...plugged stove back in, pushed it back in place...burner now works fine! i was super impressed with the delivery of this part...ordered it on a Monday nite, it was mailed out the next day (Tuesday), and i received it Wednesday around noontime.. :)

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

First, I turned off the power at the switch box. Moved the stove out (That was a problem, because I am 80 years young) Removed the back panel, and moved the wires one at a time to the new switch. Removed the selector, then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in. Installed the new switch installed the dial selector, turned the power back on, and checked the burner. It works as advertised!!!!! Moved the stove back to its original position, and got a hug from my wife. PHEW!!! Now I think I'll take a nap.

unplugged the range, removed the cooktop left & right front screws, unplugged left & right plug & unscrewed ground wire. Parts arrived fast & reassembled. . Happy, Happy, Happy! Happy Wife...Happy Life!

Looked up on-line the error problem and what part I needed to fix it. Part arrived very quickly and everything was going fine until I realized the stove had two sensors. Replaced the top sensor now I am getting an error on the bottom sensor. Maybe I replaced the wrong one. I will replace the bottom sensor with the one I took out and see if that does the trick. Very very satisfied with PartsSelect. Good Price, Quick Shipping, Would do business with them again. They are now in my favorites so I can find them again if I need parts.

Unplug range from 220VAC outlet. Remove screws on back of range control panel and lift cover exposing controllers and wiring. Remove burner controller mount screws. Measure old controller shaft length/new controller shaft length (per instructions). Adjust new burner controller shaft length. Remove wiring from old controller (one at a time) and place on new controller. Install new controller and secure with 2ea mount screws. Re-assemble cover/control panel. Plug range into 220VAC outlet. Have wife ops check....everyone's happy.

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

turn the light on in the oven go to the breaker box and shut off power to the oven when light is out is good indicator remove two screws in back of oven that secure element to back then remove two screws on top inside the oven to almost finish removal. phillips head screwdriver and needle nose pliers and two small spring loaded clamps are all you will need to accomplish thismove the upper element side to side until the connectors are exposed in the back of the stove pull the two wires out about 4 inches should be enough place the spring loaded clamps on each wire so as to not allow them to slip back in the stove body. take the needle nose and while holding the clamp remove the connector from each wire once this is done place the new element in the stove and reconnect the clips on the end off the element move the wires and connectors back into the openings on the stove and replace the two screws replace the two upper screws check all screws for tightness go to the breaker box and turn on the power takes about thirty minutes

Yes... it exploded. Ordered the part which was delivered promptly. Installed in about 30 minutes with a helper. Just unscrew the 4 interior screws and a bunch of the screws (10 maybe?) on the back panel. Drop the back panel, remove the electrical connections from the broiler element and have your helper pull it out. Shove the new one in carefully through the insulation, attach the two electrical connections and reattach all the screws. Worked fine but smelled a bit as it burned off the new coating. About a 30 minute project.

since I only had one of two screws, i installed with just the one. it would not work at all using a slightly longer screw, which is very odd.