WFE515S0JS1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

After identifying the part and taking delivery of it, I opened the breaker for the unit and then removed the range top by taking out 2 Phillips screws and lifting the part away from the hinges in the back. The element was attached with only 2 spring loaded clips which I then removed, noting the numbered position of each. I then photographed the wiring (x4) from several angles and removed each of them. I attached the clips to the new element and reconnected the wiring to the main heating element and the sensor per the photographs. The element was then re-positioned into its mounting slots, the range cover was reattached with the screws and the unit tested once power was restored.

I left the old broken hinge in place, & put the new hinge on the left side.

I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.

Watched a video on you tube!
When I ordered the hinge it was recomended to replace both hinges. so I ordered two hinges not knowing that one of the hinges didn't have a spring. I ended up with an extra hinge.

I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.

1. Pull range out from wall
2. Unplug range
3. Remove back cover using drill and screwdriver bit
4. Remove dial handle on affected burner dial
5. Remove two screws to unattach broken infinite switch
6. Disconnect wires from broken infinite switch
7. Reconnect wires to new infinite switch
8. Attach new infinite switch using two screws
9. Use pliers to snap off end of post to fit your burner dial, if necessary. It was on ours.
10. Reconnnect dial handle.
11. Reattach back cover using drill and screwdriver bit.
12. Plug range back in
13. Relocate stove against wall

the door came apart fairly easy getting it all back together was another story lining up glass and panels that have already been heated was fun but its back together and working fine.... It should be noted that I have a warranty for the stove but the hoops I had to jump thru and the time it would take for the tech to come it was easier to do it myself!!

Wrestled with it for ten minutes and then watched a youtube video on how to set the locks on the oven door hinges in order for the door to be installed. The video was instrumental

turner off circuit breakers for range, i rolled the range out from between counter tops so i could see the burner sw. using a flash light read all the numbers on the switch to my wife who wrote then down, knowing what the switch looked like i could find could find correct instruction video on parts select & check the switch numbers & ordered it. replacing- made myself a drawing of the wiring connections, replacing switch-power off, unscrewed mounting bracket, removed switch, removed ONE WIRE AT A TIME & CONNECTED IT TO SAME TERMINAL ON THE NEW SWITCH, remounted the switch & turner on circuit breakers

I took the door off the oven frame by releasing the hinge latches and lifting and pulling the door outward to remove it . Then I removed the glass outer cover by taking off the philips screws and then unscrewed the door hinges . I then reversed the order to replace it .

Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.

Removed face plate (4 screws). Removed 2 screws holding manifold in place. Detached wires from the switch. No need to mark them - they don't have to go back on any particular terminal. Remove the switch from the manifold with an adjustable wrench. Replace with new switch (thread sealing compound on the new switch is sufficient - no need for teflon tape). Reattach wires and reassemble manifold and face plate. Easy fix!

The repair was easy. I unplugged the stove, removed back panel, pulled knob and removed 2 screws to remove switch. Unplugged old switch, plugged in new one and installed the 2 screws for switch. Had to snap off stem for new switch to fit knob (easily done with pliers with provided notch). Put knob and back panel back on. Total time, maybe 20 minutes.

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

After doing a YouTube search. I successfully completed the repair by easily diagnosing the issue with the element.
I watched a video about 5 most common problems with whirlpool broiler elements.
The first being to inspect the element for damage. I found a small section that appeared to be rough and had a raised bump.
I decided to order a new element because the oven is older and it wouldn’t hurt to install a new one even if this wasn’t the issue.
Once the part arrived, which it did quickly, I followed the video instructions. It was easy and straight forward. I completed the task in under thirty minutes. It was very simple and I now have a functional broiler element.