WFE525S0JW1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

My first approach was to try to find some help on the internet - Y-Tube or whatever. When I could not find anything, I was on my own. My first thought was that the best and easiest access to the switch was to somehow remove the top section of the range which held the switch. I was trying to avoid having to pull the range from the wall and cabinets. But not finding any way to do that, I then pulled the range from the wall, and removed the back panel (8 screws), which gave me easy access. Once that was done, the replacement went smoothly and quickly. So if replacing any switches on this range, FIRST pull it from the wall and THEN remove the back panel, and the rest is a piece of cake!

I purchased a new infinite control switch 6". and replace the old one.

Unplugged unit, removed plate behind control panel, removed 5 or 6 wire connectors, pulled off burner switch knob and removed 2 screws that holds switch in place. Reversed the procedure and was done.

put it off a week before i worked on it but if you can replace a plug on a excord you can do this less than 5 mins

Removed original broiler element, and found it was open. Replaced with new element.

Replaced Infinite control switch in just a few minutes. Unfortunately the new switch had a lose terminal that was not supposed to be in the switch that came from the factory that way. I connected the switch, turned it on, and it instantly shorted the switch out. At that point the lose terminal was real easy to see.

Remove the plug from outlet then shutoff gas. Remove the 10 screws hold the back panel of the oven. Unclip the connector of the temperature sensor from the main line. Pull the sensor straightout. Reverse the process install the new sensor. Couldn't be any easier. Oven working great. Calling in a reapairman would have cost $200 for parts and labor.

Element burned out, ordered from Sears. Took over 2 weeks to get, originally sent wrong burner then shipped second one to wrong address. When I installed element I found that switch was also burned out . I ordered it from Parts Select & it was in the stove in 24 hours from the time I ordered it on line. Be assured I know where I will order my parts from now on

removed the screws that were on back side of oven securing panel that covered element terminals disconnected wiring to upper element then went in side oven area removing 4 upper mount screws that were holding upper element in place then removed old element and reinstalled new in same order was removed..

Snapped in the new drawer glide. Took less than 5 minutes.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.

Replaced the burner switch.

unplugged the range, removed the cooktop left & right front screws, unplugged left & right plug & unscrewed ground wire. Parts arrived fast & reassembled. . Happy, Happy, Happy! Happy Wife...Happy Life!