YWFC150M0JB0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

First, I turned off the power at the switch box. Moved the stove out (That was a problem, because I am 80 years young) Removed the back panel, and moved the wires one at a time to the new switch. Removed the selector, then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in. Installed the new switch installed the dial selector, turned the power back on, and checked the burner. It works as advertised!!!!! Moved the stove back to its original position, and got a hug from my wife. PHEW!!! Now I think I'll take a nap.

take the 2 screws that hold the handle on out...watch the glass front and the side trims because the handle holds them on. Take the glass out then remove the side trims. Replace the side trims holding the glass in place with 2 pieces of masking tape om each side then install the handle with the 2 screws and remove the masking tape.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Yes... it exploded. Ordered the part which was delivered promptly. Installed in about 30 minutes with a helper. Just unscrew the 4 interior screws and a bunch of the screws (10 maybe?) on the back panel. Drop the back panel, remove the electrical connections from the broiler element and have your helper pull it out. Shove the new one in carefully through the insulation, attach the two electrical connections and reattach all the screws. Worked fine but smelled a bit as it burned off the new coating. About a 30 minute project.

turn the light on in the oven go to the breaker box and shut off power to the oven when light is out is good indicator remove two screws in back of oven that secure element to back then remove two screws on top inside the oven to almost finish removal. phillips head screwdriver and needle nose pliers and two small spring loaded clamps are all you will need to accomplish thismove the upper element side to side until the connectors are exposed in the back of the stove pull the two wires out about 4 inches should be enough place the spring loaded clamps on each wire so as to not allow them to slip back in the stove body. take the needle nose and while holding the clamp remove the connector from each wire once this is done place the new element in the stove and reconnect the clips on the end off the element move the wires and connectors back into the openings on the stove and replace the two screws replace the two upper screws check all screws for tightness go to the breaker box and turn on the power takes about thirty minutes

due to the cooktop age, part was not an exact duplicate. I had to drill new holes in the stainless steel for mounting and ground wire. I used a lot of kitchen matches to heat the shrink tubes over the twist connectors. I should have gotten a heat gun or torch.

since I only had one of two screws, i installed with just the one. it would not work at all using a slightly longer screw, which is very odd.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Unplug power. Remove panel on the back. Unplug heater.From front remove 3 screws and remove heater. Installed new heater. On the back restored connections - squized the lugs to have better connection. Put panel back. Plug the power and see if the coil get red. It looked good. Used oven few times it works fine. Difficoult part is to clean oven all around from accumulated grease. First repair for this stove, most of the time spend on figuring out what to open, no instructions.

Snapped in the new drawer glide. Took less than 5 minutes.

Unplug range from 220VAC outlet. Remove screws on back of range control panel and lift cover exposing controllers and wiring. Remove burner controller mount screws. Measure old controller shaft length/new controller shaft length (per instructions). Adjust new burner controller shaft length. Remove wiring from old controller (one at a time) and place on new controller. Install new controller and secure with 2ea mount screws. Re-assemble cover/control panel. Plug range into 220VAC outlet. Have wife ops check....everyone's happy.

Remove old drip bowl from the range and put a new one back.

(a) I took out (and threw away) two stained 8* chrome drip bowls on my kitchen range; (b) ti put in two new 8" chrome drip bowls on my kitchen range. I'm pleased that I was equal to the task.