WFG515S0JB1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed bottom panel. Unscrewed igniter. Replaced igniter. Reinstalled panel. Started oven before replacing panel. Easy install.

Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.

The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.

I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.

My oven was assembled at the factory with half a hinge in left side ( no giant spring assembly) and in 15 months the right side hinge twisted and collapsed from bearing all the weight. First I thought I was only dealing with one bad hinge, and took the screws out of one side of door only and replaced hinge and was done in five minutes. Watched YouTube videos which were great and did the repair . Then I noticed the other hinge had no tension on it and did a complete disassembly of door and compared hinges and discovered the other shoddy assembly. I recommend you try to replace one hinge at a time. Take out screws on one side and finagle hinge into place. I did not do this and it took a long time. Rated repair difficulty due to several parts of oven door need to be aligned correctly to get the screws back in. Getting one side aligned caused the other side to become mis-aligned. Not rocket science but requires a lot of patience as you will redo it many times. I screwed the new hinges/steel channels they sit in into the inner door to help reduce the number of moving parts. Then aligned and secured door parts. I cut a 6” piece of straight wire from a coat hanger and stuck it through the screw holes to line them up. Worked very well, and after door was screwed together then I finally screwed the hinges to the outer door.

Removed back upper cover, unscrewed retaining screw from module. As noted in a comment from another do-it-yourselfer, I replaced screw with a longer one and reinstalled module. Note that the replacement part is not exactly the same as the old one(the wires are located differently), I noted the wire color codes with the slot number and reinstalled them in the same slot number. Works fine.

Remove 2 screws holding oven bottom in place.Lift out the plate and replace with new plate. The hardest part of the replacement was lining up the screw holes. By the way i have never received such great service from any internet company as Part Select. I ordered the part on a Monday and the part was at my home the NEXT DAY and installed that evening.

Bought new igniter.
Pulled stove from wall and turned off gas and disconnected power cord.
Removed oven racks.
Removed oven floor.
Removed heat shield/dissipater thing.
Removed 2 screws holding igniter to gas burner tube.
Disconnected the wire (this was harder than expected because igniter had only a few inches slack in the wires), took off back to try to find better access to wires, no help there, door was not easily removable so difficult to reach in with 2 hands to pull wires apart, eventually I got it.
Connected new wires.
Replaced igniter to feeder tube with 2 screws.
Plugged back in, turned gas back on and tested.
Reassembled heat shield thing, oven floor, racks.
Done.

We replaced the part. It was pretty quick and easy to install.

Remove;
Bottom drawer- pull open and lift up slightly when fully open then pull the drawer the rest of the way out.
Unplug ignitor terminal- there is a small tang inside the terminal end that needed pressed out of the small hole of the ignitor, with a pick.
Oven racks.
Oven bottom- 2 long phillips screws at the back. lift the back up 1st then the front comes up and out.
Burner diffuser- 2 small phlilips at front (they only prevent the diffuser from sliding, they don't screw into anything). slide diffuser forward out of the notch then lift the front up. pull rear tabs out of the notches to completely remove.
Ignitor- two 8mm (5/16) bolts holding ignitor to burner. pull ignitor out of guide holes.
Reverse to install new ignitor.

Removed two screws holding the bottom in, pulled out old bottom, inserted new bottom, replaced screws and tightened them. Total time less than five minutes.

cleaned the hole and inserted glue, then the rubber feet.

Turned off power to range. Removed the lower panel that was secured by two screws, as well as the metal cover beneath it also secured by screws.. Removed the two screws securing the igniter, and pulled apart the black tubing that secured the igniter. (I had to pull hard to get it apart). Plug the new end into that same black tubing. screw in the two screws to secure the new igniter (this is tricky because one screw is hard to reach) I laid something in the base to cover the holes so I wouldn't lose a screw if it dropped. Screw metal panel back in, followed by the lower oven panel.

Just took the bottom cover off the bottom of the stove, pulled the old igniter and put the new one on.

This did not solve my problem.
What do I need to do next?

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Replaced the grate.

REMOVE BOTTOM OVEN PAN. REMOVE GAS DEFLECTOR. REMOVE GAS TUBE. UNPLUG WIRE. REMOVE TOP AND BOTTOM SCREWS ON IGNITER. REPLACE IGNITER AND REATTACH IGNITER SCREWS. RE-INSERT IGNITER PLUG. REPLACE GAS TUBE AND DEFLECTOR. REPLACE OVEN BOTOOM PAN.