GS395LEGZ4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I use the table knife to slide the side of the stove to open the top. then I traced one of the wire to where it was hooked up and remove it and replaced it. I did them one by one.

Unscrewed the feet from the floor. Pried up the range top, removed burners. Unscrewed sides of the range from wooden cabinet it was recessed into. Unplugged range from outlet. Pulled range out into the open. Removed back cover. Discovered that I have the wrong replacement part.

Unplug the stove. Remove the burners. Release the top of the stove by using a screwdriver to push in the spring clips on each side of the stove top. Pull out stove to access the back of the stove. Remove the back plates. Identify the defective igniter wire and remove. Install the new igniter wire. Screw the back panels back on. Snap the stove top back in place. Reinstall the burners. Push the stove back into place and plug in the stove. Test the burners.
One precaution - make sure you do not move the gas tubing under the stove top out of position. If you do, make sure you put it back in line with the gas valves.

Turn gas off at tank. Oven rack out. 2 screws out of flame spreader and remove. 2screws from ignitor. Pull oven out from location to access rear bottom cover. 2 screws out and unplug ignitor. Guess what ? Reverse order. Not worth paying gas company over 250 dollars.

I just removed the bottom panel in oven and the igniter was right where the flames should be and I removed the two screws and replaced with new part. I replaced bottom oven panel. You need to remove rear panel and plug wire and replace rear panel. My problem was solve. It took 20-30 minutes tops.

new handle arrived black for white oven - screws did NOT fit new handle- glass came off the door when removing old handle

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.

The repair went well. Only took a few minutes. Oven is 21 years old and still working. I figured why throw away if still working. Thank you Select Parts for coming to my rescue. Will keep you in mind.

Unplug range from electric service.
Turn off gas supply to range.OVEN
Removed the floor panel of the oven housing.
Unscrew,and removed the heat deflector. (Caution sharp metals)
Used 3/8 socket set to unscrew the old Igniter, used same bolts to mount new Igniter.
Go to the back of the range removed the metal guard held by four Phillip screws, unplug old harness, plug new factory plug (do not alter harness)

Pull range out from the wall. Unplugged the old igniter. Took the broiler assembly out of the bottom of the oven by removing 6 philips head screws. Removed the 2 screws holding the igniter & removed. Screwed the new igniter in place , replaced broiler assembly. Got back behind range plugged in the new igniter slid range back into position & turned the oven & it works like a new one.

Took off oven door removed all screws to get old hinges out. Replaced with new hinges and put the door back together.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

Based on symptom, knew either switches or spark module. Checked continuity to each switch. Knew if only one faulty, entire harness must be replaced. Checked out good. Spark module isolated so replaced it.