SF387LEGN4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Moved oven away from wall, Turned off gas and unplugged electrical from wall. The igniter has a coupler plug that you have to unplug from behind the unit. Take out the bottom drawer. Remove the 2 nuts holding the igniter in place. Remove old igniter. Replace with the new igniter, screw in nuts and thread connector wire to back of unit. Reconnect the igniter behind the unit. Turn on gas and plug in electricity. I checked to make sure it worked before pushing it back into place. I also took time to clean up while the oven was pulled out so it took about an hour - 15 minutes to replace the part - 45 to clean up. Works and looks just like a new oven range!

Removed old trim kit and handle installed new parts but was having problems with glass fitting between handle and bottom bracket there was a gap between glass and handle when installed fist time after disassembling again I found that the door frame it self had to be tapped back into alignment to be square but once the adjustments were made the installation was a breeze

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

remove burner - 2 phillips head screws. Raise top - cut wire to ignitor. Strip wires and connect with a wire nut. Drop in new ignitor - reinstall burner.

Shut off gas and unplugged electrical cord. Removed grates; oven floor and flame spreader and then unbolted old igniter with nut driver. Removed shield in rear of over with Phillips screwdriver and unplugged igniter from power socket. Removed old igniter and replaced with new. Bolted new igniter into place with nut driver and plug into rear socket. Turned on gas and plugged in electric to test igniter; saw white glow and flame on in a minute. Replaced rear shield, flame spreader, oven floor and grates. DONE!

Our oven wouldn't light as the ignitor wasn't getting hot enough. I ordered the part from your company and got it in just a few days. A quarter inch wrench and one plug, done!

ordered the part and in less then 24 hours from ordering the part it was shipped and delivered and my husband and I put the part in took us no time at all very easy to do... 2 years ago i had this same problem and called a guy in the area cost me $200. I had dinner in the oven by 5 that night!!!!

Very easy. A couple of screws and it was repaired. Parts select makes it easy and affordable to do minor repairs on my appliance. This is the second time we have used this company to repair our oven and so far all has gone very well.

The igniter would glow but no gas was released to the burner. I was told that the igniter is bad because it is not getting hot enough to open the safety valve to release the gas to the burner. I turn the gas off and unplugged the oven. Opened the oven removed the racks then removed the two screws that hold the bottom plate of the oven. Now I can see the burner and the igniter. The igniter is held on to the burner with two screws. Unscrew then and unplugged the wires. Then replaced with new igniter. Replaced everything that I removed. Plugged oven back in and turned on gas. Then started oven, it takes 45 sec. for the igniter to get hot enough to release the gas and everything was working.

Since the broiler worked fine, I took the igniter from the broiler (exact same) and moved it to the bottom and sure enough oven ignited fine. I did this to isolate the problem, because it could have been either the igniter or the valve. I put the broiler igniter back on top when I got the new part, because it is used only 5% of the time. Be aware that you may need to rummage for some machine screws because the factory screws stripped when I removed them. The oven must have annealed them.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

We ordered our part from PartSelect.com, of course, using their diagnostic tool(s). We received it very rapidly after ordering (a day or two). It involved taking two screws out of the bottom plate of the oven. There were two screws in the diverter (?), but they weren't attached to anything. I had my son, who is young, strong, and small get behind the oven to locate where the igniter plugged in. He detached it and I unscrewed the nuts holding it in place. One of them was in pretty crooked and made it a little difficult. But I pulled it out. I put the new one in place, my son plugged it in, and I replaced the two nuts, securing the new one in place. I replaced all the parts and their screws while the wife cleaned the gunk from behind where the stove sits. We did perform a quick test prior to re-assembly and it looked good. Re-attached everything, put it back in place and it's working like a dream. Just in time for Fall baked goods...

most difficult part was having to pull the stove out to access the Igniter wire connector. unplugged connector, removed 2 Igniter mounting screws, installed new Igniter and connected plug. very easy project. less than 30 minutes total thanks to website for perfect diagnosis of problem

Removed bottom plate by pulling up from the back (had some resitance), Two machine screws holding cover over igniter, used 3/8" socket to remove. Pulled oven from wall to disconnect igniter @ coupler, unscrew one more machine screw, fed replacement igniter into slot and coupled, attached single screw to pipe, put cover w/ 2 machine screws on top, install bottom plate. Had to use butter knife to get bottom plate to fit into the front cabinet area of stove. Done & working fine.

Really quite simple. Remove the racks - remove the two screws in the back of the bottom plate - slide out. remove the bottom drawer. remove the two screws holding the igniter - unplug the old igniter and remove. screw in new igniter, plug up new igniter, replace bottom drawer, replace bottom pate, replace racks. I did turn off the gas and electricity to the unit before repairing - and it was easier for me to get behind the unit to unplug/plug the igniter. works great! thanks!