WFG525S0JT0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed trays to expose the ignitor, replaced ignitor and re-assembled.
Would be much faster the second time.

Do not remove the oven door. (Not necessary.)
Remove the lower storage drawer.
While laying on the floor, remove 5 screws on bottom edge of door, two on each end, one in the middle. Middle screw is slightly different than other 4.
Caution: When removing the lower trim, the front glass may slip down. Be prepared to catch it. The side trim pieces may also slip out.
It helps to have a second pair of hands here. If needed: Slide the front glass back into place. Slide the side trim pieces back into place.
Position new lower trim piece, align holes. Start with the center screw, then the end screws. Leave all screws "loose" until all 5 are threaded, then tighten.
NOT recommended to caulk trim to prevent future rust. The caulk will act like glue on the front glass.

I first shut off gas to stove and unplugged the stove. I then opened the oven door and used a phillips screw driver to remove the three screws under the cover plate that sits behind the gas control knobs . I then removed the cover plate. I then took off the grates on stove top and proceeded to remove the two screws on each burner head with a phililps screwdriver. Some where tight so I used a drill driver on low speed to turn the screws out. After removing the burner heads I had to remove two screws on each corner in the front under the cook top of the stove to remove the cook top off the stove. But before that I had to release the two wires from a clip under the cook top for the ignitor switches before I could lift the cook top off the stove. These should be on the right hand side. Now I had access to remove the burner valve that had the broken stem that the knob is attached too. For this I used adjustable wrench to remove the nut for the gas tube that goes from the burner head to the control valve. Then I had to release the ignitor switch by pulling it off the control valve stem or gently pry it off with a flat head screw driver. Then used 1/4 in socket wrench to remove the top bolt to release the old burner valve off the gas plenum where all the burner valves are attached too. Then pull the old control valve off from underneath the gas plenum. Then i put in the new burner valve making sure it had a rubber seal around it where it goes up through the hole underneath the gas plenum. Then while holding control valve in place put the screw back in the top of the gas plenum through the other hole on top of the gas plenum and screw it in the burner valve making sure it also has a seal under the bottom of head of the bolt that you are screwing in to the control valve. This is so that no gas can leak from the plenum where the control valve is attached to. The control valve threads should be lined up with the bolt since both holes on the bottom and top of the gas rail (plenum) are lined up Use a 1/4 in socket to tighten down the bolt with the seal but don't over tighten. Then reattach the tube that goes from the burner head to the control valve with adjustable wrench and make sure not to over tighten. Then grab the stove cook top that you took off and replace it back on top of stove.After in place make sure to put those two wires back into clip that is under the cook top so wires are not touching the oven. You have to put part of your arm under the cook top and use your hand to try to push the wires back into the clip that's under the stove top. These wires will be on the right hand side. This is kinds tricky to do. Then tighten cook top back down with two screws and reattach the ignitor switch back through the valve stem of new control valve . It should clip in around the valve stem. Then reattach the cover plate over the valves stems with the remaining three screws and attach the control knobs.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

Unscrewed old pan and screwed on new one.

put back together with parts ordered. Parts arrived in 2 days!!!! and saved my large dinner party the following day from being ruined. Thank you so much for your parts inventory and for Jenn Air supplying only the part needed and not the entire door. It was a life saver!

Pop old one out and new one in

ordered new broiler pan

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

replaced light socket but did not repair problem. must have burned the motherboard.


pleased with service from your company.

Turned off CB for the oven,Remove the oven from the cabinet , remove the back of the oven, replaced the light Assembly. turned on CB for the oven, tested the light. and truned off the CB and replace the back and reinstalled the oven in the cabinet.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Open oven door and remove racks. Remove 2 screws at back of oven floor and remove bottom plate. Unscrew screws that hold flame defuser. Remove defuser. Remove screws that hold bake igniter and flame tube. Unplug wire to bake igniter. Remove screws to bake igniter. Replace old igniter with new igniter. Replace screws and wire to igniter. Replace flame defuser and put screws back. Put bottom plate back into oven. Replace 2 screws at back. Replace racks. close door and test by setting thermostat to some temperature and verify that oven works.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !