WFE535S0JV0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

By hand screwdriver

Removed face plate (4 screws). Removed 2 screws holding manifold in place. Detached wires from the switch. No need to mark them - they don't have to go back on any particular terminal. Remove the switch from the manifold with an adjustable wrench. Replace with new switch (thread sealing compound on the new switch is sufficient - no need for teflon tape). Reattach wires and reassemble manifold and face plate. Easy fix!

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

Disconnected electricity and using a Phillip Screwdriver I removed the panel in the back of electric range. I took a photo, pulled the wires off control panel, unscrewed 2 screws to loosen control panel. Replaced with new one, reconnected wires. I reconnected electricity to make sure it was working, then unplug it again after confirming and replaced metal panel behind range. Plug it back, set clock and ready to use. Very easy to do it yourself.

Watched video & did just guy in video did. Very easy job & the burner works like new.

Removed the oven door listened to a video/You tube and the rest was easy.When you remove the door panels make sure all the parts are assembled correctly.

So glad I found the parts I needed! I followed the GREAT video instructions on this site and when I opened the oven door up discovered there had only been ONE spring inside this whole time! I replaced both springs & hinges easily, cleaned up the glass while I had the door off, and everything went right back into place!

Watch the video...

after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

Look up Whirlpool parts and was able to order parts thru PartSelect.
Item were deliver with in three day. I was able to watch the video provided my PartSelect on how to replace the spring loaded latch. The job was easy and I was able to install the range door. Thank you PartSelect.

I would recommend Whirlpool PartSelect for parts and service.

Ernest Martinez,
ernestmartinez918@gmail.com

Just follow included instructions.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.