WEC310SAGB3 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I used the allen wrenches to block the hinges, removed the oven door and used the kitchen counter for a work station. I removed the trim piece at the bottom which released the side trim and oven glass front, and then reversed the procedure. It took more time to clean things than to do the exchange. My only issue is with Fed Ex who delived the first trim piece bent in the middle inside a crushed box. Part Select had another part sent the same day after I called them.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I did the repair by myself. I used masking tape to hold the side trim in place. It was pretty easy and it looks great.

I remove bottom trim which is held on by 3 screws and try to install new bottom trim, did not work well. I then remove yop handle assem. Then the door glass which you need to clean after. Then install the new bottom trim then insert the glass into the new bottom strip using masking tape to hold the glass and side strips in place prior to installing the the top handle piece which is held on by two screws. Not a hard job to do.

We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

replace

Sanded element contact, replaced connector block. The easiest part of the task was ordering the part online. You made it unbelievably easy. I was amazed!

Cut, splice and heat shrink.

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

remove burner by hand and remove old drip bowl replace with new bowl inspect burner for ware and insert back into slot.

Just cut the old receptacle wires and splice in new kit. Very simple and worked perfectly.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

due to the cooktop age, part was not an exact duplicate. I had to drill new holes in the stainless steel for mounting and ground wire. I used a lot of kitchen matches to heat the shrink tubes over the twist connectors. I should have gotten a heat gun or torch.