GS395LEHS0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

The repair was VERY simple....2 screws, remove the broken handle, put now one in place, put back the 2 screws... done!! What I want other to know... is who with about 6 clicks from my home pc, I had the exact part i needed, ordered!!! I was dreading ordering this part so much because of all the hassle I have in getting to a website to order, and all the crap that goes with finding, the part....the ordering the part. This site was SOOOOO cool!! The handle had been broke for almost a year, and didn't want to replace it because of the usual hassle that goes with 'The Hunt". If I had know that Parts Select was so good about this, I would have had the new one installed 3 days after the original handle broke!! And shipping was SO FAST!! Have you people in my book marks for sure!! Thank you one and all!!!

I shut off the gas and removed the back plate and disconnected the wires. Then I unscrewed two screws from the igniter and replaced the old with the new. Then I snapped the wires together and put the back plate back on. The oven works great!

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

I pulled the stove out from the wall & took the back lower right cover off. Unplugged the power cord & disconnected the igniter from the power. Took shelves & bottom cover (took two screws out)from oven. Used nutdriver to remove old igniter, then pulled the connector through into the oven, discard. Put new igniter in place with nutdriver.Push connecting cord through to back of stove.Replace bottom cover & shelves. Plug cords together & plug cord back in to outlet.Turn stove on & igniter works!!! Push stove back into place & bake a cake! :)

Opened lower door of stove located ignitor removed 2 small screws that secure part, took guard off back of stove unplugged wire connector removed part plugged new ignitor in re-installed guard, re-installed 2 screws that secure ignitor. Turned stove on oven lit problem solved. This is the 3rd time i have used instant repairman on parts select to fix 3 different applicances and have saved hundreds of dollars fixing it myself with the help of parts select.

I removed the oven racks, removed the oven floor and the oven burner cover, pulled the range out and removed the small panel on the back which covers the igniter connector. I disconnected the old igniter, removed the two screws holding the igniter in place and removed the old igniter from the oven. Then screwed on the new igniter, fed the wire through to the back and connected the new igniter. Turned on the oven and voila' we have ingnition! The oven is working again but I'm getting the "F2" routine sometimes. It doesn't do it every time but when it does I unplug and replug and then it works. I'm a 67 year old female and I considered it very easy so pretty much anyone should be able to do this repair.

Moved oven away from wall, Turned off gas and unplugged electrical from wall. The igniter has a coupler plug that you have to unplug from behind the unit. Take out the bottom drawer. Remove the 2 nuts holding the igniter in place. Remove old igniter. Replace with the new igniter, screw in nuts and thread connector wire to back of unit. Reconnect the igniter behind the unit. Turn on gas and plug in electricity. I checked to make sure it worked before pushing it back into place. I also took time to clean up while the oven was pulled out so it took about an hour - 15 minutes to replace the part - 45 to clean up. Works and looks just like a new oven range!

The first challenge is always how to get the appliance apart; in this case how to open the top of the stove. There are two clips one on each side towards the front that you need to push in to release the top. However before you do this you need to unscrew and remove each of the burners from the top of the stove. After that, push the clips in with a flat blade screwdriver from each side to lift up the top. You will need to remove completely the top back plate on the rear of the appliance to get to the igniter module where you plug in the wires from the individual igniters. Then you also need to remove the top four screws from the lower rear plate to allow it to be pulled open enough to help thread the wire from the new igniter through. After that you simply figure out which wire (they are individually colored based on their position on the burner) and disconnect from the igniter module. Carefully pull it out watching where it came from so you can rout the new wire in a similar manner. Then remove it completely pulling it through the top of the stove and replace with the new igniter. Reverse the steps to put everything back together and you should be good to go. Be prepared to take a little extra time to clean the cook top as once you remove the burner you will see everything that has over the years accumulated between the burner and the stove top. All together it took me about a 1/2 hour (including the cleaning).

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Removed a cover plate on the back of the stove. Unplugged the old igniter. Pulled the bottom drawer out. Reached in under the stove and undid the 2 screws holding the igniter in place. Screwed the new igniter in and put everything back together. The only tricky bit was reaching the igniter through the bottom drawer opening.

To begin with,the symptoms were strange.....the burner would not ignite even though the igniter was glowing....but if you bumped anything in the broiler or pulled the drawer out and closed it abruptly,it would lite. This went on for a few weeks , until slamming and banging worked no more.(that was getting old anyway)I went ahead and ordered the igniter.It came fast and was very easy to replace.I went in from the oven,took out the racks and the bottom plate(2 screws), exposing the flame diverter that is just above the burner.(2 screws)You can access the igniter now ,and remove it.(2 screws),and unplug it.Reverse order to install the new one.I didnt unplug the range or turn off the power,because I screwed the igniter on first and then it was a matter of just plugging it in. Everything went back together and turned on the oven. Worked fine. Very easy to do,and no more banging around the broiler.Should have done it sooner.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Used new differant screws to mount it and cut and spliced the wires to use the org. Plug.

We ordered our part from PartSelect.com, of course, using their diagnostic tool(s). We received it very rapidly after ordering (a day or two). It involved taking two screws out of the bottom plate of the oven. There were two screws in the diverter (?), but they weren't attached to anything. I had my son, who is young, strong, and small get behind the oven to locate where the igniter plugged in. He detached it and I unscrewed the nuts holding it in place. One of them was in pretty crooked and made it a little difficult. But I pulled it out. I put the new one in place, my son plugged it in, and I replaced the two nuts, securing the new one in place. I replaced all the parts and their screws while the wife cleaned the gunk from behind where the stove sits. We did perform a quick test prior to re-assembly and it looked good. Re-attached everything, put it back in place and it's working like a dream. Just in time for Fall baked goods...

Since the broiler worked fine, I took the igniter from the broiler (exact same) and moved it to the bottom and sure enough oven ignited fine. I did this to isolate the problem, because it could have been either the igniter or the valve. I put the broiler igniter back on top when I got the new part, because it is used only 5% of the time. Be aware that you may need to rummage for some machine screws because the factory screws stripped when I removed them. The oven must have annealed them.