WGF3505AWG Westinghouse Range - Instructions

I removed the oven bottom which was held by two large head long screws. I then removed the heat deflector using a small socket. The only difficult part was when I went to replace the igniter. The screws that were holding it in place stripped I guess do to the amount of heat they were continually subject too. I had to apply pressure to the igniter bracket while removing the screw using a small socket. Even with that they did not come out easily. If I had not had trouble removing the screws the repair probably would have taken 15 min.

pulled stove out to unplug the electric cord. Took oven door off and removed the bottom panel (2 screws) and then removed the burner (2 screws). took off old igniter ( 2 nut screws). cut wires and stripped the coating to wire to new unit.
Attached new igniter to the burner, and put the burner back in place and replaced the screws so unit was stable.
Turned oven on to make sure ingiter was going to light oven, when oven came on, turned oven off and replaced the cover to the burner and the bottom panel in the oven,. Put the oven door back on........
Probably took 45 minutes.
I ordered the part late Friday afternoon, around 3, and the part was here Saturday Afternoon. I was impressed.

Remove the oven drip pan & burner baffle. unscrew & cut leads to remove old igniter. Splice old leads to new using furnished wire nuts and remount. Job would have been easier with oven door removed, but didnt want to create a new project.

Removed lower burner covers and fan cover to access igniter. Unscrewed igniter and pulled out as far as possible. Marked both wires and snipped them. Twisted on wires from new igniter and mounted igniter. Pulled excess wire thru to back of oven and reassembled covers from first step. Last step was to explain to wife that she needs clean in there MUCH better.

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

1. Unplugged power cord.
2. Removed warming drawer and oven shelves and lower plate
3. Removed old wirenuts from back of warming draw space (awkward to reach in to the back).
4. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in oven - screws in poor shape and were not reuseable.
5. Found next size up sheetmetal screws and installed new ignitor.
6. Ran wires down adjacent to gas feed into warming drawer space.
7. Connected with wirenuts supplied with ignitor.
8. Replaced everything.
9. Tested oven and ate some tasty blueberry muffins.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

Figured out which part we needed by reading about others problems; Followed instructions & Presto = oven heats!!!! Didn't have any problems removing or replacing part.

First, I read all the instrutions that came with my replacement part from Parts Select thoroughly (twice) then follewed them like an experienced surgeon. I removed the lower drawr after turning off the gas and unplugging the stove and then took out the bottom panels inside the oven to expose the screws holding the ignitor coil. Removed it, then cnnected the new one to the existing wires as they were in the stove and the drawing in the instructions, then replaced everything in the reverse of them coming apart. Plugged it back in, turned the gas back on and now it,ll bake things again. YEAH!! Parts Select!!!

First I'll say the instructions and comments from this site were right on, making it easy. I slid the oven out and unplugged the electric. Opened the door, took out the racks, took out the two thumbscrews at the back bottom and lifted the bottom plate up and out, and lifted off the heat guard plate. I could then see and reach the igniter pretty easily (the flashlight helped). The igniter may have been replaced before because there were already wire nuts on the wires. I unscrewed the two screws using the nutdriver and noted which wire (top or bottom) went to which wire inside. Unscrewed the wire nuts and removed the old igniter. Used the old igniter to determine where to cut and strip the new igniter's wires. Connected the wires of the new igniter using the wire nuts and put the two mounting screws in. Then just put all the other stuff back in (heat guard, bottom plate/two thumbscrews, racks). Plugged it in and started the oven. Got a small amount of "crackly" noise initially (maybe because the igniter was new) but that went away and it's been working fine and quiet since. Very easy (well, perhaps other than being on your knees, leaned into the back of an oven for a couple minutes). Well worth the effort.

Unplug electicity, Take out all inside pans, unscrew the burner arm, disconnect white power wires to the igniter. remover gas buner, detach the igniter and attach the new igniter to the burner arm. re assemble the burner arm, connenct the white wires to the white wires from the oven just below the igniter. Put all pans and guards back in oven, plug in and test.

Unplug electric , remove old igniter, cut wires, shorten new igniter wires, strip insulation, wire nut together, attach new igniter, plug in electric, fire it up. Worked great.

removed the old igniter, installed the new one. 15 minutes, piece o cake!