WWGF3008TWB Westinghouse Range - Instructions

I am an HVAC tech by trade so it wasn't difficult to diagnose problem with safety valve. The hard part was being without an oven for a week. Repair was simple and effective--oven works good as new.
Shut off gas and unplugged oven. Removed floor of oven between broiler and bake section, used wrenches to disconnect gas line from safety valve in back of oven, used philipps head screwdriver to remove burner assembly and gas valve, reversed process to replace. Checked out operation--OK.

The repair of the oven was really easy . I removed a total of 7 screws with a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the back cover of the instrument panel. I then unplugged the wires from the from the oven control and with a phillups screw driver I removed 4 screws that hold the oven control,the face plate with the words on it has to be taken off the old control and put on the new one . I then installed the new oven control by putting the 4 screws back on and plugging back the wires. I then replaced the back cover with the 7 screws and plugged the power back in the outlet, The clock has to be adjusted and your done.

Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

The screws had to be removed to take top off stove back and remove the unit. New unit was put in place and screws put back in.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

Removed back plate from range. Removed the clock/timer from range. (note), a special square headed screwdriver needed to remove this unit. I had to use the old clock/timer face. This required careful removal of the face from old unit. Plugged in new unit and refastened it . Turned on range and checked all functions, everything worked fine. Probably save at least one hundred dollars by doing it myself. Will probably use Parts Select for any otaher work I do in the future. Ron

Unplug range, remove oven racks, remove 2 screws at the rear of oven bottom sheet metal panel. Lift the back of the panel and slide to the rear a little , then remove panel. Remove nut on top of heat shield and remove shield.. Open broiler draw slightly Note wire connections to gas valve. Remove Philips head screw from sheet metal guard bottom left rear to access wire connection. remove 2 hex head screws the hold igniter in place and install new igniter. remove spade connectors from gas valve and connect spade connectors from new igniter. , remove molex connector from bottom left rear and connect one from new igniter..Install shield in left rear bottom. install heat shield over burner and install nut. Install sheet metal panel in bottom of oven and 2 rear screws.. install oven racks and plug range back in. set clock and test your repair.

order pcs fit perfect.

My brother swaped the panels out in 15 minutes after pulling range out from the wall to get at the attachment screws/speed nuts. Only minor problem was re-gluing the trim cover on to the new part.

One night I found a mouse living in my stove. We found it literally living underneath the top of the stove (the part where the burners are that you have to lift up). The insulation on the inside of the stove was literally covered with mouse poop, dog food, dog treats, and scraps of food among other things. It was totally nasty and I thought we would have to buy a new stove. However, I searched online and found replacement insulation on PartSelects website and ordered it. It was cheap and the fix was removing old insulation, vaccuming out and cleaning the stove then replacing the insulation with the new one. PartSelect had a great price and shipped promptly.

removed two screws disconnected inlet pipe and two outlet pipes, removed regulator. Replaced with new regulator. performed leak Test.

Unplug the range. Remove screw to Take of the back panel on upper right corner. Unclip the old spark module, unplug the wires with the needle nose pliers and plug them into the new spark module same as the old module. Clip it on. Replace the back panel.

Slide out the old; slide in the new!

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!