WWEF3006KWA Westinghouse Range - Instructions

turned off breaker 3 Phil screws open door and on inside range top I would reconmend a board to hold top up square tip for cross bar and pliers to pull wires off fit perfect works really nice

Shut off power - throw breaker. Oven access easier with door removed - requires removal of two Phillips head screws. Remove two screws holding element in place using 1/4" socket. Pull element & wires out and pull slide in connectors out (had to hold the wire end with needle nose pliers}. Installed element by reversing the removal procedures. Also good time to clean oven.

removed screws,unplugged terminal leads,installed new one,back in business.

New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.

It took me more time to find the right tool then to remove and replace the element. If I can do it anybody can do it. Removed two (2) screws with a nutdriver. Detached the element replaced with new element and replaced screws. Easy job!

Removed two screws removed and replaced panel.

I removed the baking racks then unscrewed the default screws for the baking element.I then disconnected the electrical leads from the damaged element. I then removed the old damaged baking element and installed the new baking element, attaching the electrical leads after cheking for weak spots in the element. I then re installed the baking racks and started the oven to burn off any factory oils on the baking element.

It's a simple project. Remove old element and replace it with new one. Access is easy. Only one tool needed. What impressed me was how fast the part got here, like the next day after I ordered it.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

this bake element has two special Hex style screws, securing it in place, but a nut driver worked just as well. remove the baking racks, and then loosen the two hex screws. slowly pull the element out of the back wall and then disconnect the electric leads. reinstall by doing then the opposite action. could not have be simpler.

All I had to do was loosen the screws, pull out electrical hookup on both ends, hookup new heating element to elecric and screw em into place. That's it, super easy and I got the part in 2 day : )

The problem was caused by the owner placing an aluminum catch pan under the bake element. The failure of the element was where it was in contact with the pan. The repair involved removing two screws pulling out the element to access the wires. The connectors were the pull off type so I just disconnected the wires from the old element and placed them on the new element, pushed the element back in place and replaced the two retaining screws. I suggested that the owner not place anything in contact with the bake element. Be sure to up-plug the stove plug before attempting repair.

Take the screws out of the inside of oven for the element and slide the oven away from way and remove the back and insert the element to the clips and screw the back of the oven back together and plug in again and push back in place. Very easy for my husband to repair.

After doing without the oven for a week or so we decided to turn to the internet and try doing the repair ourselves. We are not mechanically inclined/fix it yourself kind of people. This really was easy. Just detach the old element and attached the new one. A couple of bolts and snapping one out and then the new one in. Very simple

Remove the 2 nuts holding the element in place. Pull the element out slightly to expose the wires. each side of the element has a wire. Slide the wires off. Replace new element. attach wires and pu the 2 screws back in the element holders.