37-1117-66-01 Tappan Range - Instructions

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

Took the drawer out, snapped the new glide in place, and replaced the drawer. Installation was simple with no tools required.

Just took the old one out & put the new one in . Just a few screws to remove & put them back when replacing to new broil element , and were back up and cooking :)

I just took the old ones out and replaced them with the new ones. It took less than 5 minutes.

I couldn't explain how to do the job any better than your instructional video does. As long as you follow the video instructions you should have no problems.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson

just put in slot

I looked up the model number of the Tappan oven on the net, found the part on the PartSelect site, ordered it and it arrived within a few days. The disassembly should have required nothing more than a Phillips head screw driver, unfortunately one of the screws was completely frozen and I managed to strip the Phillips head socket.

The screw was in a very awkward position so I first tried using grip pliers on the edge of the screw - this failed, I then tried grinding a flat spot on either side of the screw circumference and using the flats for gripping - it worked but the screw wouldn't move. Finally, I took a hacksaw blade and cut a slot in the head of the screw. I widened the slot using miniature files and finally made the slot wide enough for a large slot blade screwdriver - this worked. After removing that one screw and maneuvering the broken hinge out of the access hole on the stove front (the break in the hinge was such that this took awhile) the rest of the repair went very quickly.

The oven door was such that I could not see all of the hinge and when the part arrived from PartSelect I thought it was the wrong part. I called your parts return number to ask some questions. The lady who took my call was extremely helpful and we first discussed the part ID, then she showed me how to find a picture of the actual part on your site. After looking at the picture and the diagram I suddenly realized the part was correct - it was just that I thought it was supposed to be installed in a different manner. I'm sorry I didn't remember to get her name because she certainly should be commended for he patience and her assistance. Thanks Again.

Unpluged old one pluged new one in. So good to have a burner that all the coils heat up.

Pulled out the old drip bowls and replaced with the new. A simple snap!

Pretty easy installation; you lift the top plate up and snip the wires maybe four inches away from the burner. Leave more wire than you think you need; once you get into it you'll realize you need more wire length than you think.

Then strip the remaining ends, twist them together with the provided caps, and use the heat shrink to hold it together. Remove the old terminal, replace it with the new ones, and you're good to go!

Remember to check that the wires are tight in the cap before heat shrinking, though. I had to get more shrink wrap in order to finish.

The repair was very simple and easy. All I hqad to do was remove the old knobs and attach the new ones. No tool was required.

Just followed the instructions

First thing I did was turn off power to the range at the circuit breaker. The repair was generally easy with the exception that 1 screw holding the broiler element support was "welded" into the oven ceiling. I stripped the screw trying to get it out. Fortunately, I had a special tool that allows one to grip the outer edge of the screw while turning it --- and that's how I got it apart. Once the broiler element support was off, I removed 2 screws holding the broiler element itself to the oven wall and carefully pulled the broiler element out from the oven wall and detached the wire clips connecting the wires to the broiler element. I reattached the clips onto the new element and installed the new element back into the oven wall. I then reattached the broiler element support using a another screw (because I decimated the original one). I then turned the circuit breaker back on and turned the broiler on. Woila. My broiler works again! Special thanks to the people at this site who were very helpful in seeing to it I got the correct broiler element. The original ordered broiler element was delivered to the wrong address. The folks at this site sent me another one. To make a long story short, they saw to it I got the correct part. I highly recommend this site based on my experience with them.