36-3052-00-09 Tappan Range - Instructions

From the front I cut the wires going to the old igniter and removed it. Then I stripped insulation back 3/8 of an inch. Using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter, I connected the new wires to the existing. Then I installed the new igniter and the job was done. I turned on the thermostat and the oven ignited quicker than it had for some time.

First, I read all the instrutions that came with my replacement part from Parts Select thoroughly (twice) then follewed them like an experienced surgeon. I removed the lower drawr after turning off the gas and unplugging the stove and then took out the bottom panels inside the oven to expose the screws holding the ignitor coil. Removed it, then cnnected the new one to the existing wires as they were in the stove and the drawing in the instructions, then replaced everything in the reverse of them coming apart. Plugged it back in, turned the gas back on and now it,ll bake things again. YEAH!! Parts Select!!!

Removed the two screws, took out the old one and replaced the new one. It was very easy and the oven works great now. Thanks.

Unplug electric , remove old igniter, cut wires, shorten new igniter wires, strip insulation, wire nut together, attach new igniter, plug in electric, fire it up. Worked great.

Replaced the flat style oven igniter. Turn off gas and unplug oven. Removed the broiler drawer, cut wires, unscrewed oven igniter (using a small/medium adjustable wrench), connected wires, fastened new igniter to bracket, spliced wire, twisted together, plugged oven back in, turned gas on, turned on oven after a few minutes...worked great.

Checked voltage supply to oven igniter, had 120 v
to oven igniter, but igniter was not glowing.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I made sure I memorized just how the wires would re-connect with the wirenuts. I then re-assembled everything. Be sure to read all the instructions, especially how to properly install wirenuts. I was able to access the wire connections below the oven chamber through the drawer at the bottom of the range. This is an important detail.

The oven igniter was working, the Sears repairman said by the phone the igniter was probley weak and not geting hot enough. Remove door ( 4 screws) Remove oven pan (4 Screws) remove burner sheld. remove lighter and cut wires. Install new. Remove storage drawer and splice new wires to the old at the back.

A friend replaced the new ignitor with the old one...very simple job.

I would like to comment on how fast the service was from when I ordered the part online to 3 business days later when the part arrived....very happy about how easy it was to order part and that the part was in stock and delivered so quickly. Thank you very much !! I will recommend Part Select to a friend that frequently orders parts.

followed the instructions that come with the part. very quick and easy.

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

pulled bottom door out as far as you can. lift out broiler tray and the tray under that. to get the door completely out. on each side of the rail holding the door from come out push in the tap on each side and pull the door all the way out and off. reach inside and take out two nuts holding the old igniter and cut the two wires and remove it
stripe about 1/4 in of the wire. attache the wire from the new igniter. hold them two and use the white cap and twist it on the two wires and do the same to the other two wires. Bolt the igniter back on with the two bolts and your done. When you turn on the oven the igniter will click and turn on. it will be alot brighter then the old one and the oven will start pretty fast.