TGFS63DSA Tappan Range - Instructions

The installation of the bake burner tube went well. I followed the instructions within the Video as it pertains to replacing the Bake igniter. That video also describes the removal and replacement of the bake burner tube. The original screws that mounted the igniter to the burner tube bracket were damaged. I replaced them with 18-8 Stainless Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screws, 8-32 Thread Size, 3/8" long. As noted in the video, the oven bottom panel is removed using a flat head screwdriver. For all other screws I used a 1/4" socket and ratchet. A Nut Driver would have also worked just as well. On initial start-up after the repair there was a minor light odor from the flame coming into contact with the new metal burner tube that dissipated within a few moments. In all everything went very well.

Turn off gas,unplug,unbolt the burners(you have to do this to keep from bending and or kinking over the gas lines.Luck kept me from bending the lines out of whack.)All I needed was the electrode but I couldn’t find it available separately.I had to buy the whole front burner.Anyway remove the clip from the new part slide the electrode out.Tilt the top of the range up take the clip off of the old electrode slide it out put the new one in install clip.Plug it in,rebolt all the burners in.Careful not to bend the gas lines.put the top down turn on the gas,plug it in and light.

We carefully pulled the old seal out of the door ( staples hold it in place).Then took the replacement and laid it around the door. Starting at one side we adjusted the seal and pushed the staples into place. Making sure we folded the ends, we used a spoon to push them into the slots.

After turning the power off and once I removed the back panel to access the wiring, the soot at the contact point of the short circuit was easily visible. It was the oven bulb socket that had come loose and caused the problem. I insulated the wire at the terminal point and reattached the fixture. All in less than 15 minutes.I turned the power back on and now it's good as new.

Opened the oven door, removed the racks. Removed the bottom cover, two thumb screws in the rear, bottom, of the oven. This exposed the top plate of the burner, (actually in the top of the broiler section) 1 nut took this cover off. Now, the burner and the igniter are exposed. Two screws removed the igniter, and two wires with ceramic wire nuts. Disconnected these two wires and that was it. Installed the new igniter in reverse procedure as above. Pretty easy. Probably should have turned off the power to the Range first just to be safe.

Unpluged range. Removed back cover plates using the nutdriver. Unplug the control board. Removed 4 phillips screws, removed the control board assembly. Installed new control board in reverse order.

First removed oven racks then two screws to remove oven door, removed two screw of oven fan cover, ( need to remove fan cover to have clearance to removed bottom cover of oven) removed bottom cover of oven, then removed two screws holding oven igniter and cut wires of old igniter then spliced wire of new igniter to existing wire and reassemble in reverse order.

Watched the you tube video from this website and did the same to my own oven. Much better replacement igniter than was installed in oven from factory and amazing packaging from partselect.com. Thank you!

Disconnected the oven from the wall outlet. Removed the bottom panel of the oven to reach the parts. Reached in the thight spot (not for a big guy)to unscrew the old igniter. Installed the new one. Plug the oven back. Turn the oven on bake at 350. Oveb lighted up in 5 seconds ! Working great since then!!!

We removed the old part and replaced it then when warming the oven all of a sudden there was a loud noise and something went and so we called a repair man which I guess we should of done in the first place. Now he has ordered a part that cost 170 soo that is my story don't try to repair if you don't have experience.

Removing the drip pan and the bottom burner cover exposed the igniter, removing two screws retaining the bracket freed the old igniter. Removing the warming drawer allowed access to the control module to unplug the wiring on the ignitor. After making myself a diagram, I unplugged the wires and removed the malfunctioning igniter. Cutting the leads off the old igniter long enough to splice it on below the oven bottom with the enclosed wire nuts and attaching the new igniter (reusing the old insulation to protect the wire) took only minutes and reassembly was straightforward.

New igniter: $60
Repairman fee saved $150
Being able to tell my wife "See,
I told you I could fix it!" PRICELESS

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!

See other posts.... they have the correct repair procedures.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the bottom drawer to access the space where splice will be made between new igniter wires and existing wires. This step is recommended in previous posts. I wasted a lot of time taking out unnecessary stuff in the oven compartment before I realized that the drawer compartment provided easy access for repair. Story of my life on just about all repairs.

Screw the handle, that it...