31-2237-66-01 Tappan Range - Instructions

Determined how to proceed to disassemble the console. Unplugged the power cord, shut off the gas valve, removed six philips head screws from back panel and one philips head screw from side panel that held the front glass cover in place. Removed the nut off of the old switch body and the two oven control knobs and the timer/clock knob. Removed the front glass by pulling the right side forward and sliding it slightly to the right. Disconnected the two wires from the back of the old switch.Removed the nut holding the old switch body to the console frame. Replaced with the new switch and did a reassembly by backtracking my steps. I even remembered to clean both sides of the control console glass before reinstalling it. Placed the range back in position, checked it for level, plugged the power cord in and checked for the proper operation of the new switch, turned on the gas and checked for any possible leaks from moving the range. The switch was a perfect match. The picture on the grid paper background really helped in identifying the switch that I needed.

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

The repair was really easy. All I did was unplug the surface element and plug in the new one.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

It was a replace racks not repair. No problem

Removed heating elements and replaced drip pans. And by the way, this is the only 'pans' I could find to fit. Thanks.

The replacement racks were spot on and the service was outstanding. had the racks in 2 days. Happy Happy Joy Joy! :)

snapped the new piece of plastic in its place and ta da, its fixed.

Unplug range, remove top back panel. Remove knob. Replacement part is different, but if you look closely, each metal tab has a number stamped on the plastic housing directly beneth it. Remove old switch (2 screws)and remove and replace wires one at a time. You will need to cut the "one size fits all" metal shaft that the knob attaches to. We had to remove most of it, leaving only 2 "segments". File rough edges and apply vaseline so that the plastic sleeve will slip right on. We used the shorter sleeve (only 2 that are supplied will fit the knob). Replace unit and screw in. Replace knob.

Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair company wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.

I couldn't explain how to do the job any better than your instructional video does. As long as you follow the video instructions you should have no problems.

Just took the old one out & put the new one in . Just a few screws to remove & put them back when replacing to new broil element , and were back up and cooking :)

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.