TEF326FSB Tappan Range - Instructions

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

It was a replace racks not repair. No problem

The replacement racks were spot on and the service was outstanding. had the racks in 2 days. Happy Happy Joy Joy! :)

snapped the new piece of plastic in its place and ta da, its fixed.

Removed heating elements and replaced drip pans. And by the way, this is the only 'pans' I could find to fit. Thanks.

Removed four srews from bak of the oven so I could get to the timer. Then I unplugged the oven swapped out the wires put everything back together. Plug it back in and started the oven. Work great. Also you must remove the timer faceplate carefully or you will peel off the white.

Watched the video

my husband did the repair.He unplugged the stove removed the element and installed the new element.plugged the stove in and checked operation of element.Stove works great

I just took the old ones out and replaced them with the new ones. It took less than 5 minutes.

Pulled stove away from wall and unplug .Removed grates for better access. Unscewed element scews removed element & tested for continuity.there was none element is bad . Replaced with new one . Time about 20 minutes.

Originally I had anticipated a major problem requiring the removal of the back of the range and perhaps the necessity of employing the services of a repairman ($$!). Fortunately I waited for the arrival of the replacement element, which, upon inspection, was not configured to go through to the back of the range. What a relief!

The hardest part of the repair was finding the correct nutdriver (5/16"). Removal of the damaged element was simply backing out the two retaining screws inside the oven and pulling the element out far enough to expose the clips to the wire. Pulling them apart was easy enough, and then the element I disposed of immediately.

Reverse of removal of the old element was the installation of the new: Reconnect the clips to the element, push the wires back into the insulation, re-inserting the two retaining screws and tightening them gently.

The final step was to plug the range 220 cord into the outlet. Testing whether the element was functional was a breeze; the oven and the range elements worked perfectly.

Removed the backing, removed the old part and disconnected the wires (after taking a quick photo so we knew where to reconnect them on the new part). Removed clock/timer facing and placed on new part. Reconnected the wires to the new part and screwed it back in. Oven now works great without spending the $300 we were quoted by the repair man!!

The broil element and range were both working so I removed the bake element to test for continuity. Use a 1/4” socket or wrench to remove the two screws holding the bake element to the rear wall of the inside of the oven. Pull the ends of the element out of their recesses taking care not to lose a wire inside the back panel of the oven. Pull the wires off the element ends. You should be able to do this by hand; use a flathead screwdriver for a little prying if necessary. Visually inspect the element for physical damage. If you don’t see any, test the element with an ohmmeter or multimeter. If it reads anything other than 0 ohms (continuity), your element is defective. Installation process is reverse of removal.

After receiving the parts in only two days, I first turned off the circuit breaker. Then I pulled the stove out from the wall. I used the nutdriver to remove the upper rear panel. Using the screw driver I removed the defective clock timer and used a pocket knife to carefully remove the clock timer face. I positioned the clock timer face on the new clock timer and installed same in the stove panel. (I had made a list of the wires and their colors to insure the proper placement on the new clock timer). Installed the four screws and on to the burner switch. Two front panel screws removed and the defective burner switch was out. Installed the new burner switch, connected the wires, installed the two screws, pushed on the knob and I was ready to go. Re-installed the reap panel, pushed stove back in, turned on the circuit breaker and tested the burner and oven. All worked correctly. A very easy repair!

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.