TGF336AUA Tappan Range - Instructions

Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!

There were only 2 screws that held the door handle & cap in place, removed screws & handle to get cap pieces off. Ordered new cap, - lost screws - cap delivered - no screws had to order screws, damn! They're expensive too !! Got screws, installed handle & cap, now wife is happy again!

Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly

I followed the instructions given pretty much, however none of them mentioned one important point.To remove the cover plate, do NOT try to pry it away from the unit. It will crack. Fortunately I caught it in time.I then started in another corner by inserting a razor knife between the face plate and unit and sliding it around all four sides. There was enough goo left on the plate to enable me to affix it to the new unit.

After looking over the installation instructions I was confident that I could perform this on my own, However, changing the burner orifices was a bit tricky. Getting the original ones out worked well, they stayed in the nut driver when it was lifted. One of the new ones fell out when inserting it. Thankfully it fell all the way down and I could retrieve it. A small piece of tape was needed to keep it in the driver. The rest of the install went per instructions.

Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .

I loosened two screws(one on the left and one on the right) at the inside base of the oven door, then lifting the door off. The hinges are held in place by two screws and a flat metal covering. Remove the faulty hinges. The screw holes on the new hinges have to have some WD40 applied and then screw the screws in and out to widen the holes a bit. Once the screw goes in easily, remove them and insert the hinge into the hole that you removed the old hinges from. Replace the metal covering and insert the screws. tighten the screws. Open the hinges then slip the door back onto the hinges. Reinsert the two screws at the bottom of the door and tighten. I recommend replacing both hinges as there is a plastic insert in the hinge that becomes brittle over time and breaks.

Repair went well. I went on You Tube and was able to watch what to do. That was better than reading instructions.

On the front left burner would not ignite, after the installation of the new one, same problem, new one didn't fix.. I guess it's something with the electric igniter

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Having already removed the old igniter , replaced it with new.

Replaced the ingintion module, still did not work, replaced the burner complete with new ingiter , it now works but another one quit . the front right one has 5 ohms resistance ,replaced with new one with 0 ohms, the back left has 2 ohms resistance and now it does not work , will need to replace that burner allso. too bad you can't buy just the spark module for the burner.

Once I recieved the new part it was easy to determine what two screws to remove to remove both the panel and the handle. I removed the two screws, slid the panel up and removed it. The new panel locked into place when slid down over the door and I replaced the sctews.

first I removed oven draw for access, then removed the two screws with a nut driver, next removed the two wire nuts and the old element was free. Replaced new element in reverse steps of removing old and the new part ignited the stove within 30 seconds, but now I have no excuse for not fixing dinner!! Thanks for promt shipping, it arrived early than anticipated.

Your website is great...easy and it literally took me no mote than 5 minutes to find what I needed and order...and received it VERY quickly. Must say I was dreading going to some parts house that we have in our town in bad area, and searching on dusty shelves for what I needed...am so glad I found you!!