30-4687-23-02 Tappan Range - Instructions

1) Turn off the gas and disconnect the power

2) Remove oven door. There requires that you remove the two square drive (SD) bolts on the inside, partially close the door and lift it off the hinges.

3) Remove the grills.

4) At the back remove the rear shield (aluminum panel held by 2 SD sheet metal screws.

5) this exposes the broiler igniter and its two wires. If its been replaced in past, there should be two porcelain screw-on wire connectors. Undo the connectors by turning them counter-clockwise. With a volt-ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the igniter. If its open circuited, its broken. If not, then its in the circuit board, and this help stop here. If this is the original igniter, it ends in a plastic connector. Disconnect by pulling it apart from its mating plug and again, check the continuity of the igniter. If its defective, reconnect the connector and cut each wire on the igniter side. Strip back about 1/2 inch of insulation on each lead.

6) inside the oven, using the SD driver, remove the 4 screw securing the broiler burner from the roof of the oven. The burner can now be removed, pulling the burner away from the gas jet on the right.

7) The igniter is now exposed and can be remove by removing the two SD drive screws.

8) Replace with the new igniter, being careful not to touch the black element, and feeding the wires though the rear oven wall.

9)Reverse the above dissembly procedure.

10) Broil the sausages.

Make sure you unplug the oven before you begin. I removed the old igniter. The top wire on the igniter goes to the back of the oven and plugs into a flat blade type connector. Instead of using the twist wire nut I used a flat connector because it was easier to put on and is foolproof. Make sure you cut the plastic insulation off the connector so it does not melt when the oven is in use. I used a wire nut on the other wire and that was it. Very simple and the oven works great again.

New part arrived, opened pkg. , Pulled drawer out. . . Snapped in new parts. . . . Done!! Saved myself $100. 00.

removed shelves and base, removed 2 screws that held igniter on, disconnected wires from gas valve removed protective cover in corner {1 screw}
disconnected plug, removed igniter. This igniter was easier to remove from front of stove on this model

Bought two to try out to see if they fit and worked-popped out the old ones and the new ones fit and worked like a new stove. Came back to this web site and bought the other two so all burners are now brand new without having to replace the stove.

First, I unplugged the oven from the wall. I opened the bottom drawer of the oven to see where the igniter was mounted, which was directly under the bottom pan of the oven itself. I opened the main oven door and unscrewed the 2 screws that were holding the pan to the bottom of the oven. Then, I slid the pan back towards the the back of the oven and it popped right out.

There were 2 hex screws that were holding the old igniter on, so I unscrewed them with my socket set. I made sure to pay attention to which wire was the top one and which one was the bottom one coming out the back of the igniter. I pulled off the wire nuts connecting the igniter wires to the wires of the oven. I striped the wires on the new igniter and re-attached them to the proper wires of the oven, using the included replacement ceramic wire nuts. I re-screwed the hex nuts in, mounting the new igniter to its proper place. I put the pan back and screwed the 2 screws back in to hold it in place.

Plugged it back in, turned it on, fired up within 20 seconds. Good as new.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Removed oven door. (Open to first position then lift the door straight up). Located igniter in bottom of oven, followed connecting wires to connection block below oven behind the oven drawer. Disconnected the existing wires. Lifted the burner out of oven to disconnect defective igniter. Screws were fused to the burner. Used vice grips to remove screws requiring the screw holes to be retapped. Bought new screws to replace trashed screws. Installed new igniter to the burner rail then set burner rail back in place. Fished the leads from new igniter back down to connector block. Reinstalled leads. Reinstalled oven door. Tested functionality of oven. Everything worked. Reinstalled metal plates back in oven. Reinstalled cover over connection block behind bottom drawer. Reinstalled drawer. With the exception of fighting with two screws fused to the burner rail it is a very straightforward repair and shouldn’t take much more than 1/2 hour.

Apparently, the original insulation had been removed due to a mouse infestation-the unit had been in storage for a while. After removing about 50 screws, I had all the body panels off and cleaned out the interior of the stove then installed the new insulation. I put it all back together and hooked it up- works just like new. I only paid 60 bucks for this oven, so all in all, not a bad deal.

Ordered new racks and replaced them.

It snapped right into the drawer, was very easy

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

Determined how to proceed to disassemble the console. Unplugged the power cord, shut off the gas valve, removed six philips head screws from back panel and one philips head screw from side panel that held the front glass cover in place. Removed the nut off of the old switch body and the two oven control knobs and the timer/clock knob. Removed the front glass by pulling the right side forward and sliding it slightly to the right. Disconnected the two wires from the back of the old switch.Removed the nut holding the old switch body to the console frame. Replaced with the new switch and did a reassembly by backtracking my steps. I even remembered to clean both sides of the control console glass before reinstalling it. Placed the range back in position, checked it for level, plugged the power cord in and checked for the proper operation of the new switch, turned on the gas and checked for any possible leaks from moving the range. The switch was a perfect match. The picture on the grid paper background really helped in identifying the switch that I needed.

get liquid wrench, remove oven door(2 screws) remove oven bottom(2 screws) follow directions included with part. unplug or shut off electricity at breaker panel, Have a good light source.

First I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven. Then, I removed the base of the oven (the oven floor) by easily removing two screws. I also removed the flame guard by removing a screw. That easily exposed the old oven igniter. I removed the two small screws that held that in place. The igniter is connected by two wires, which you'll have to snip. Snip those very close to the igniter (leave about an inch of wire on the igniter). Using a wire stripper, remove about 1/2 inch of the outer sheath of the existing wires. On the new igniter, snip the wires leaving about 2 inches still connected to the igniter. Using the wire stippers, remove about 1/2 inch of the outer sheath. Using the plastic wire caps that came with the new igniter, connect the wires from the oven to the corresponding wire on the new igniter. Screw the new igniter back in place. Replace the flame guard and oven floor. Turn on the circuit breaker and start cooking again!