TGO336BFW1 Tappan Range - Instructions

My husband was able to easily remove the old part, and replace with the new ignitor. The wires were long, so he took the extra precaution of tying them away from the flame. It took longer to take everything out and put it back together than the actual repair..

took drawer out, removed tin covers, found igniter and removed,snipped off parts to put on new igniter ,wirenutted old to new put back together ,we had ignition! all in all pretty easy job! detailed instructions that came with new part were easy to follow and precice

I simply searched YouTube for the problem I was having and foud it was probably caused by a bad part. I found the part online and ordered it. It was as simple as a few screws and a couple wire-nuts to install. My girlfrind was very happy to get the oven fixed !!!!
Thanks parts-select for having pictures and dimensions so I was sure I had ordered the exact right part.
I was soooo happy to have found you !

I replaced both gas valve and igniter. I removed oven door and bottom of oven for easy access to both. The door slid off easy and the bottom was held by two thumb screws. I removed the gas flare for easy access to igniter & valve. I then removed the igniter & valve using nutdriver, phillips screwdriver and adj wrench. I then followed simple instructions supplied for wire connect on igniter and valve. It was a very easy job for a 25 yr old stove. I made the mistake of ordering only the valve and ordered the igniter later. Having both new parts causes the oven to light in about 30 seconds. Im glad I found partselect online. Nh, westerville, oh

followed the instructions that come with the part. very quick and easy.

pulled bottom door out as far as you can. lift out broiler tray and the tray under that. to get the door completely out. on each side of the rail holding the door from come out push in the tap on each side and pull the door all the way out and off. reach inside and take out two nuts holding the old igniter and cut the two wires and remove it
stripe about 1/4 in of the wire. attache the wire from the new igniter. hold them two and use the white cap and twist it on the two wires and do the same to the other two wires. Bolt the igniter back on with the two bolts and your done. When you turn on the oven the igniter will click and turn on. it will be alot brighter then the old one and the oven will start pretty fast.

I exposed the ignitor through the inside of the oven and then removed the two screws that held it in place. I then cut the wires underneath the stove ans reconnected them to the new part with the wire nuts provided. It was a simple repair.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

First I took the door off. Then I removed about a dozen screws. Than my wife insisited on cleaning the other two windows! Since the inside window was broken ;a lot of grease had gotten on the other two windows.She said she would never have another chance. After that I put everything back together. It took about an hour all together.

my dad and i did it together and it was easy. just had to remove the screws on the outside oven door pull the door apart, remove the old glass and put in the new and put the screws back in. hardest part was to get some of the screws out because they had been in so long.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I made sure I memorized just how the wires would re-connect with the wirenuts. I then re-assembled everything. Be sure to read all the instructions, especially how to properly install wirenuts. I was able to access the wire connections below the oven chamber through the drawer at the bottom of the range. This is an important detail.

The oven igniter was working, the Sears repairman said by the phone the igniter was probley weak and not geting hot enough. Remove door ( 4 screws) Remove oven pan (4 Screws) remove burner sheld. remove lighter and cut wires. Install new. Remove storage drawer and splice new wires to the old at the back.

Followed service sheet. Measured 2.6 amps draw at igniter wire which should have been 3.2 amps. Replaced igniter and problem resolved.

1. Unplugged power cord.
2. Removed warming drawer and oven shelves and lower plate
3. Removed old wirenuts from back of warming draw space (awkward to reach in to the back).
4. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in oven - screws in poor shape and were not reuseable.
5. Found next size up sheetmetal screws and installed new ignitor.
6. Ran wires down adjacent to gas feed into warming drawer space.
7. Connected with wirenuts supplied with ignitor.
8. Replaced everything.
9. Tested oven and ate some tasty blueberry muffins.

Unplug appliance. Remove the bottom of the oven (2 screws in back of oven bottom), remove burner cover (2 screws in front and nut in center holding burner). Pull out the bottom storage drawer under the oven and unplug both wires from oven Igniter which are located in the back. One wire plugs into the gas valve and the second wire went into a connector that was on the lower left. I removed the screw on the back oven wall that held the burner so I could remove the burner for ease of work. Remove two screws holding the old igniter. The two screws holding the igniter to the side of the burner were stripped and they took a little time to remove but I replaced them with two new screws I had in my misc. screw drawer and had no issue. Cut the top wire and splice it onto the top wire of the new igniter using the porcelain wire nuts provided. Do the same with the bottom wire. Re-assemble and plug back in. Everything worked perfectly.