TGF320DWC Tappan Range - Instructions

I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.

My daughter did the installation and it was quick. She had no problem, and it's working great. She love it. She just use a philp screwdriver to take off the bolt then unplug the control adaptor. From the back then plug the new one in and that's it. Easy as 123

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I reattached the new piece. It was the easiest thing ever and i'm a woman!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires....install new element and woalla.........save thangsguivingday thanks to part select .com..........

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires nuts, (from last repair) installed new igniter. Not rocket science here.

Simple repair ,unplug unit,cut the 2 wires close to heating element,remove elements 2 screws w/1/4 inch nut driver. Cut and strip 2 wires back about 1/2 inch,be sure to cut wires close to element,wirenut both wires together. Reinstalled element,plug unit back in. Done . . . 12 Minutes,ready to bake a cake. .

First turn the thermostat off-cut the wires leading to the ignitor, close to the ignitor side-Remove the two 1/4" monting bracket screws and remove the ignitor install the new ignitor using the same 1/4" screws and reconnect the wires leading into the ignitor, note the polarity is not imp[ortant--use the heat temp-wire nuts provided--close the door and call for heat the gas valve is working fine now....

Thank you, Thank you and thank you!!! I couldn't be happier and I save over $200 in repair. My repair was very easy after watching the video. I cut off the wire and ensure that the new one are attached into place. Placed all parts back and boom, the oven starts working a new.

Removed oven door, removed oven floor. Unscrewed skirt with attached igniter and gas tube. Two nut screws hold igniter to burner. Remove old igniter and replace with new, reattach two wires with supplied wire nuts. Replace oven floor and door. Oven lit right up, pizza anyone?

pulled drawer out and took old igniter off and replaced it

Removed broiler pan drawer,removed two screws on element unplugged wires,installed new one. ,Tried oven, works like it did when new. It couldn't have been easier,plus I saved a bunch of money thank you partselect mike m.

open oven door remove bottom of oven then remome the metal cover over the burner to expose the ignighter remove 2 screws that hold it to the bracket. the two wire's that come out of the ignighter run down under the bottom oven pan, i removed the bottom front cover by lifting up and then pulled out, then i could see the wires i removed the wire nuts and pulled old wires off and removed old ignighter. i pulled off the insulator covers from the old one and slid them on the wires of the new ignighter then i fished the wires back down and and attachted them with the wire nuts, then reasembled the rest of the oven. woks great!

remove bottom pan, remove gas second cover, loosen nuts on ignitor, cut wires near the ignitor end for extra slack, connect new wire of ignitor, screw on wire caps, reattach ignitor, replace covers and finished. Very easy repair.

Removed the metal cover on the back of the range by unscrewing the square-drive screws around the perimeter, left the center screw until the end to make it easier to hold for removal.

The control unit was held in with 4 Philips head screws, and connected by a single wire-to-board connector. Unplugged the connector and removed the screws and the control unit came right out.

The replacement unit doesn't come with a face plate, so I used a razor blade to carefully remove it from my old unit. The adhesive that held it on was still sticky so I was able to easily attach it to the new unit.

Then I just put everything back together in reverse order. One of the easiest appliance prepares I've done.

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.