1313*2A Roper Range - Instructions

Called my son. He took off the back put the belt on and we were ready to go.

First diagnose the problem. No air coming out the exhaust or filter, things aren’t drying, you can’t hear the blower running.
Fuses or breakers are verified ok and on.
Turn dryer off. Disconnect exhaust tubing after unscrewing it’s clamp. Drag the dryer away from the wall to get access to the back and unplug the 220 v power cable from its socket. Get behind the dryer to remove its back cover plate by unscrewing its holding screws with screwdriver or small socket wrenches.
Vacuum out the back of the dryer removing the powdery dust around the blower motor and pulley and remove the old belt.
Since there is no adjustment arm, you have to stretch the belt around the rim of the blower pulley with both thumbs pulling upward against the motor pulley below.
After the belt is in place you can pull on it to be sure both pulleys rotate so the blower fan will rotate. Then just put the back plate on the dryer, replug it in, push it back enough to hook up the exhaust pipe and push the dryer back to its home spot.
Turn it on and you’re ready to go. Then order a spare belt for the future in about 5 + years.

Unfortunately after i replaced the new switch the drier worked well. After it stopped for the 2nd time we wanted to put a load and start the swit lost contact. It was not working.It lost the contact with the circuit. No clicking sound the drier not functional. I guess need a new switch?

so easy, just ordered the part, the part came and inserted the element into the stovetop

new element plugged into burner connection- an easy fix

the new knob fit in the chrome trim ring perfectly. the tough part of the job was selecting the part from the many selctions. I thought I might have to modify it a little but it fit. thanks for the great service. dean

Your web site is amazing Ive enjoyed watching your videos,this is a really great way to see what it takes to repair your washer very informative. Steve was a good teacher for me I just followed along as he explained each step and my washer came apart just like he said. I removed the two front console screws and pulled slightly forward and lifted console up and tilted it back where it was out of the way. next I was able to lift cabinet up from the back and remove it from the frame and lay cabinet on the floor on top of a rug I had to protect the finish on cabinet . Now I had access to the lid switch and simply removed the two screws in the cabinet and the old switch. I connected the two wire connections to the new switch (no)normally open connection, used same actuator the instructions say to do this because the one that comes with the new switch won't fit so use the old one. on my washer there's a cover that fits under this switch and It took me a little longer to get the screws to line up so they fit through the switch and into the cover but It worked fine. Now all I had to do was reinstall the cabinet just like Steve did on the video my only problem with this was seeing where the tabs in the frame were located so that the slots in the cabinet would fit over top of frame tabs I used a flash light in one hand and lowered the cabinet down I held the light on the frame tabs and the slots in cabinet fit right in then lowered cabinet to the rear frame tabs where i just had to push slightly on the sides of cabinet and it fit right in.Next i pushed the back panel in place and on the top of washer just like in video reinstalled both spring clip clamps and the console and reinstalled the two screws. I plugged in the washer put drain hose back in drain pushed washer back in place turned it on working great now ! Thank You so much for your help Dan.

Order replacement lid switch, installed it, good to go. The installation video and instructions with the replacement part were very helpful.

Replaced the element. The part came the next day which was great. Good customer service!

took part top of washer saw switch replaced it not to difficult it is always easier when you have new one to look at

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

Pulled out electric heating element and replaced with new. I have had this frustrating problem for 2 years and after replacing the elements they now work like new! My only question, why did it take me so long to replace???

replace the water valve

My wife did the repair. Went on your website and watch the video on how to replace the switch and she was able to do it herself. I didn't mind at all. Saved $75.00 service charge.

I found on youtube that there are directions to repair. Dryer problems are usually one of three things, the door switch being one of them. i checked this last (should have been first). ordered the part( about 65% off sear's cost) and it came in one day! It went on really easy as long as you knew from repair video how to access inside. almost spent $400.00 on a new one.