D5757X0 Roper Range - Instructions

After finding the correct Y-frame, inches and watts in a surface burner, it was easy to just slide in the slots. Tested, and it was perfect. Now it makes all of the other burners look bad. Thanks. Your site was the only one, that I was sure I had the correct part.

One screw taken out, 2 wires switched, new part & screw put in. Burner like new!

lifted the cover, unscrewed the ceramic wire fastners, put the new part in, and voila, job done and working perfectly

Pulled out electric heating element and replaced with new. I have had this frustrating problem for 2 years and after replacing the elements they now work like new! My only question, why did it take me so long to replace???

I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...

I ordered the 2 burners that were not working. When I got the burners, I discovered that one of the burners was still working and the wiring under that on had burned out. So I ordered the little box kit and repaired it. I only needed to strip wires and twist together and replace the small box. Now all are working and I am cooking with all four burners again. All for about $50.

First I removed the one screw that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires...)
Assembled the block parts.
Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve.
Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements.
They work very well now.

Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the 'burners' and 'burner' trays. Removed the screw that secured the bad block. Lifted the top of the stove. Cut the two wires to the bad block., stripped the wires about 1/2", slipped the shrink tube over the wires. Connected the new block with two porcelan wire nuts. slipped the shrink tube over the wirenuts and heated it with a lighter. Closed the top and secured the terminal block clip with a screw. Turned the power back on: voila!

All the necessary parts came in the repair kit, delivery was timely. Very easy project.

The directions were very clear. I removed the heating element, detached the plug-in block by unscrewing the screw, then cut the wires about 3 inches from the block. I put the shrink-wrap collars around the wires leading to the new block, then attached the wires to the cut ends of the wires leading to the back of the stove, using the connectors provided in the kit. I couldn't get the collars to shrink as much as shown in the picture. I attached the new block to the stove top using the screw, plugged in the heating element, and it worked!
So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.

take the old one out, but the new one in.

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

very easy

Removed the old broken burner and slid the burner prongs into place. Very EASY to replace!

Removed old block , cut off wires , used new wire nuts, heat shrink , supplied with parts , job done lowered range top went fishing ...

extremely easy to replace the burner. I just pulled out the old burner and replaced with new one. The whole process took less than ten minutes.