1765*0A Roper Range - Instructions

Someone did the repair for me.

New knob arrived promptly and matched exactly.

just slipped them on

I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine

Repair was very east. The suppliers package had all of the necessary parts ceramic wire nuts wire Ect. Excellent.
Will buy from Part Select Appliance again.

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

Time was do to the fact that I replaced two elements! I turned off the power to the braker box, unplugged the stove and removed the screw holding the element plug in, removed the part, and cut the wires where they were clean looking (not damaged by smoke or the arch) I then stripped the wire and took the new part and twisted the parts together with the caps and then put the heat shrink on and used the blow dryer on them, attached the part to the bracket and screwed it to the hood of the stove plugged the burner in, plugged in the oven and turned on the power tested it worked, did the same for the next burner and yes mind you I am a woman it was very easy to do.

I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...

lifted the cover, unscrewed the ceramic wire fastners, put the new part in, and voila, job done and working perfectly

Needed new knobs to go on the stove. I only had one left in the original ones for the stove that was bought 27 years ago.

One screw taken out, 2 wires switched, new part & screw put in. Burner like new!

Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the 'burners' and 'burner' trays. Removed the screw that secured the bad block. Lifted the top of the stove. Cut the two wires to the bad block., stripped the wires about 1/2", slipped the shrink tube over the wires. Connected the new block with two porcelan wire nuts. slipped the shrink tube over the wirenuts and heated it with a lighter. Closed the top and secured the terminal block clip with a screw. Turned the power back on: voila!

All the necessary parts came in the repair kit, delivery was timely. Very easy project.

First I removed the one screw that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires...)
Assembled the block parts.
Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve.
Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements.
They work very well now.

The directions were very clear. I removed the heating element, detached the plug-in block by unscrewing the screw, then cut the wires about 3 inches from the block. I put the shrink-wrap collars around the wires leading to the new block, then attached the wires to the cut ends of the wires leading to the back of the stove, using the connectors provided in the kit. I couldn't get the collars to shrink as much as shown in the picture. I attached the new block to the stove top using the screw, plugged in the heating element, and it worked!
So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.

Removed the original burner element sockets and replaced with parts provided in kit. Instructions were simple and easy to follow, problem completely solved in 20 mins!