FES330GN0 Roper Range - Instructions

Unplug the oven, pull it out and empty the inside of the oven. The bottom heating element just unscrews from the back of the oven with two screws. Pull it out from the back of the oven and gently pull off the electrical connections. Reattach them to the new heating element, put it back into the oven and reattach the screws. Turn the oven on and check to make sure that the new heating element is working. Put everything back in the oven and you're done!

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Ordered the replacement part., removed the old trim from the door and reinstalled the new trim. On the drawer glide, I simply reattached a new one to replace the one missing.

Cut, splice and heat shrink.

unscrew two screws..took old element out, put perfect fit new element in,screw two screws back in.

Sanded element contact, replaced connector block. The easiest part of the task was ordering the part online. You made it unbelievably easy. I was amazed!

So easy. Unplug the range. (really important. You're working with wiring after all) Unscrew the metal plate holding the bake element in place, gently pull out the wires and detach the element from them. (the element just pulls off, but it was attached pretty tightly so I did have to use needlenose pliers to get a better grip on it.) Then simply plug in the new bake element, push the wires back in, reattach the metal plate and bake a cake! Don't even think about calling a repairman for this one! It took under 10 minutes once I got around to ordering the element. (none of the local stores carried them)

replace

Keep in mind that I am a 65 year old woman who has replaced bake elements on a much older range that was hard wired. I viewed the video so I knew what to expect. The job would have taken no more than 15 minutes if the retaining screws had not been stuck. After several doses of WD40, I finally managed to get them loose but only then after I had tried every screw driver in the house. I clamped the leads with vise grips to keep them from slipping back in the stove. Unplugging the old broken element and plugging in the new one took maybe a couple of minutes. The retaining screws went back in without a problem.

Excellent delivery.

I broke the old trim when cleaning. New trim kit went together great. No screws needed because of new design. Best tip I can give is that the side trim pieces around the oven door go behind the glass on the door not in front of the glass. Visual instructions would be great.

I determined the problem by swapping the 8 inch burner with a 6 inch burner. the 8 inch got hot when connected to the 6 inch wire harness. This told me that the 8 inch burner was good. The 6 inch failed to get hot so I determined the next logical thing was the power to the 8 inch burner. I used a multi meter to determine that power was getting into the control unit but no voltage was getting out. The controller was bad. I ordered a new controller and after unplugging the stove, replaced the controller in about 10 minutes. (Critical part of repair is to unplug unit from wall -220 volts!)

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

I tested the element with a digital meter and found it was bad but I also followed your great tip to replace the receptacle which it really needed replaced also. Both parts now work and fit like new. Thanks

Remove the bottom drawer. Remove the two Phillips head screws on the top inside of the door. Pull up on the handle (CAUTION: Be sure to hold the glass front against the door while doing this or the glass front can fall, possibly damaging it. Remove the glass front by lifting it towards the top of the door. Remove the two side pieces and the bottom trim piece by unscrewing the Phillips head screws located on the underside of the bottom trim piece. Discard the old trim pieces. Attach the new metal bottom trim piece using three of the previously removed screws. Do not tighten the screws at this time. Each plastic side piece has a nipple at the bottom. Insert this nipple into the outermost hole at each end of the bottom trim piece. The edge of the flange on each side piece should face inward. Have an assistant hold the two side pieces against the door frame while you slide the glass back in. The inward facing flanges go UNDER the glass. Reinstall the top piece making sure the indentations at the top of the side pieces are under the top piece. Install and tighten the two screws that hold the top piece on. Tighten the three screws holding the bottom trim piece.