FEP320KW1 Roper Range - Instructions

a really simple fix! the parts came really quickly and all i had to do was pull the heating elements out along with the old drip pans and line up the new pans and push back in. the drip pans weren't 100% perfect as they were a universal fit, and were missing the clips that help the heating elements i nplace, but they look fine and do the job all the same.

removed the old ones.then installed the new ones.

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

due to the cooktop age, part was not an exact duplicate. I had to drill new holes in the stainless steel for mounting and ground wire. I used a lot of kitchen matches to heat the shrink tubes over the twist connectors. I should have gotten a heat gun or torch.

I determined the problem by swapping the 8 inch burner with a 6 inch burner. the 8 inch got hot when connected to the 6 inch wire harness. This told me that the 8 inch burner was good. The 6 inch failed to get hot so I determined the next logical thing was the power to the 8 inch burner. I used a multi meter to determine that power was getting into the control unit but no voltage was getting out. The controller was bad. I ordered a new controller and after unplugging the stove, replaced the controller in about 10 minutes. (Critical part of repair is to unplug unit from wall -220 volts!)

Just cut the old receptacle wires and splice in new kit. Very simple and worked perfectly.

This was very straight forward. Once the sheet metal shroud on the back side was removed just had to undo the one remaining wire, remove the block, and reassemble. Only question I had was which wires went where. The Wiring Block was melted due to the short and the wires were no longer attached. Did a quick google for a typical oven three-wire install and that did the trick.

Went on line to see if the repair could be done by us. Watched repair video and from there on the repair went as smooth as it possibly could.

I purchased a new infinite control switch 6". and replace the old one.

removed the screws that were on back side of oven securing panel that covered element terminals disconnected wiring to upper element then went in side oven area removing 4 upper mount screws that were holding upper element in place then removed old element and reinstalled new in same order was removed..

Followed the video step by step. No problem

Yes... it exploded. Ordered the part which was delivered promptly. Installed in about 30 minutes with a helper. Just unscrew the 4 interior screws and a bunch of the screws (10 maybe?) on the back panel. Drop the back panel, remove the electrical connections from the broiler element and have your helper pull it out. Shove the new one in carefully through the insulation, attach the two electrical connections and reattach all the screws. Worked fine but smelled a bit as it burned off the new coating. About a 30 minute project.

Unpluged from electric. I took two bolts out of back of oven attached to boiler. Pulled out and exposed cords the attach to boiler. Slide them off and removed old boiler. Attached cords to new boiler and slide part back in to attach the two bolts back. Plugged oven back in and worked great

turn the light on in the oven go to the breaker box and shut off power to the oven when light is out is good indicator remove two screws in back of oven that secure element to back then remove two screws on top inside the oven to almost finish removal. phillips head screwdriver and needle nose pliers and two small spring loaded clamps are all you will need to accomplish thismove the upper element side to side until the connectors are exposed in the back of the stove pull the two wires out about 4 inches should be enough place the spring loaded clamps on each wire so as to not allow them to slip back in the stove body. take the needle nose and while holding the clamp remove the connector from each wire once this is done place the new element in the stove and reconnect the clips on the end off the element move the wires and connectors back into the openings on the stove and replace the two screws replace the two upper screws check all screws for tightness go to the breaker box and turn on the power takes about thirty minutes