N9457X0 Roper Range - Instructions

Two screws remove the front of the sensor (put a pan under the sensor to catch the screws), One nut removes the rear cover to access the rear of the sensor. Separating the two halves of wiring harness takes a little dexterity. BIG TIP! Tie a string to the back of the sensor wire and pull the sensor out from the front making sure the string still shows thru the back. If you don't you have a 15 minute job trying to fish the wires at an angle thru the insulation (a very frustrating task). Untie the string from the old and tie it securely to the new. Pull the string from the back and Voila! your new sensor can be plugged in or wirer nutted to the old connection on the back of the stove. Replace the nut and the two screws and you're done!

Turned off power to range because I was scared. Unscrewed broiler element, pulled part forward and pulled off wires that were attached to the back, attached wires to new element, pushed it back in place, screwed it back on to oven. Cooked my bruchette!

I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

Ordered a new door frame morning of March 25.
Part arrived the next morning and by that afternoon, the
replacement was complete. Only four screws held the frame.

First I removed the ovem door, then I removed the 4 screws, unplugged element and plugged in the new one, then replace the screws and door. It should have been a 10 min job but I'm old and a bit fat...slowed me down.

1. Move oven out from wall 2. Remove back panel of oven, 8 screws 3. Remove 3 screws inside oven holding element 4. Pulled wire connections off of element 5. Reverse procedure to install new element

I must compliment PartSelect on their quick responce and delivery of the item ordered. It arrived a day after I had ordered it. Trust me, the $40.00 I spent on the item was way cheaper than having a repair service fix it or having the entire oven replaced. I would highly recomend anyone to utilize PartSelect.

Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!

SUPER EASY! The part arrived very quickly. I turned off the circuit breaker, unscrewed the few nuts, pulled out the element and reversed the process. 'works beautifully! Thanks so much.

The broiler unit had disintegrated at both connections. I removed the two screws in the top of the oven holder the unit, pulled out the unit, measured and ordered a replacement.

To replace the element, I pulled out the stove, removed the rear panel, located the connections for the broiler unit, remove parts of the old unit. I then attached the new unit to the top of the oven with the two screws, went around back and pushed in the two connections, replaced the back cover and replace the stove. It took about 30 minutes because I cleaned everything and sprayed bug spay (another plus for doing the repair myself).

Removed 2 screws, cut the wires, pulled the part out that the element plugs into. Replaced the old part with the new one and put the screws back in to hold it, reconnected the wires and plugged in the element. Turned stove on and Valaaaa! It was fixed in 10 minutes! Thanks for the great repair parts!